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I'll have a look at those engine mounts. Still gonna be a while before I get to putting the new engine in. I'm expecting a lot of welding.. What clutch are you using? the v8 I've got has a 2.25d clutch on it.

ive got an adapter plate on it but not sure if its for an S1 or S2a. and ive got the remote oil filter kit to try and avoid that. what about the engine mounts, and the radiator?

What g box you using for this? Or is it all on defender running gear? I've got a 86" and a rover sd1 High comp on carbs to go in so would be very interested to know how you've done it. But mine will be for driving not trialling :D

I've gotta do that seal at some point soon. is it fairly straight forward, and how did you get the new seal in did it just push in or need some trickery?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-1-Front-Stub-Axle-Kit-From-JA-/370612072682?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item564a3370ea#ht_2894wt_1163 heres the kit i saw

To try and end my constant front wheel bearing problems im going to try replacing both front stub axles. (unless you can advise me otherwise and hopefully save me money :D) when looking at what to get i put an order together on paddocks for a new stub and gasket. then looking on ebay to...

well mines a 94 300tdi and has side lights in pilar and bumper. Must've been a lucky dip at the factory

Hammerited the chassis with their aresosol cans to try them out. worked pretty well with 2 cans to do the whole chassis with one decent coat. mostly just interested to see what the cans were like. should get me through the winter with one coat since 3 coats is 5 year guarantee

check the bulb in the tail lamp. if its single filament then its most likely you've got the version where only bumper lights are tail lights. if its a double filament then you have a wiring issue.

Leave transfer box in neutral. Can catch people out of they don't know about it, and will cause them to rev it on the spot until they figure it out (if they do)

After checking the rear ones (I did them 4months ago) not the slightest bit of play. So it's something to do with the stub axle or something. Ideas? Also when you get new discs does it come with the bearing housing. Or is that separate?

I just got metal and plastic black aerosol from Motaquip sprayed on. I primer (just clean) still perfectly black

oh.. hows the rivet counting going?

Aye

That's proper heavy expedition type shocks, I've got 110 rear shocks on mine, get an 1" extra travel and they seem stiffer than disco ones

Well I need new discs before to long so I'll get new stubs discs hubs and bearings when next needed.

Didn't think so. What could cause that?

Used an old race to drift new ones in. One hub nut didn't take much force to remove the play but the other side was quite difficult. Is this normal? If it knackers another set I might replace the the stub axle as well.. Would that help?

Do you mean hammering in the outer race by hitting the bearing itself with a hammer? If so no. If not explain :)

Thought of that. It could eliminate the play by tightening the wheel bearing. Can't spot any play in the swivel or grease lost through the seal. On and they've gone slightly loose again after driving too and from Devon after only just taking the slack out before leaving. No over tightening