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Thanks for all the advice guys... didn't know the sill would have to come off as well... lots of fun with the WD40 and skinless knuckles to be had me thinks. Dopey.. your braking must be fun with half a builder's yard of bricks in the back !!

Hi folks, After boasting to my brother that my SWB S3 is more reliable than his Merc.. it has gone from having a slight whiff of petrol to ****ing it out as I drive down the road. I had a look underneath and the inner wall of the tank looks shot through with corrosion (pics below)...

My SWB S3 petrol can 'cruise' nicely at 55MPH ... but at 60+ you feel the cogs are about to smash their way out of the gearbox. If you can get a good overdrive unit you could 'cruise' at about 60-65MPH I guess I got overtaken on the M6 a week ago by a modern Defender that looked totally...

Checkout the fuel sediment bowl and gauze filter. I cleaned mine out recently and found half my rusting fuel tank in it:

I decided to buy logs today while they are still cheap and cut my reliance on gas heating over the winter. Filled the back of my 88' with as many sacks of logs would go in... then filled up my 3x4" trailer. Normally.. I am very happy with the standard brakes but carrying a load of logs made...

Taxi drivers don't need any extra driving tests.... just a bath, some deodorant and a crash diet to lose 10 stone !!

I always think the S2/2a is what they came up with when they were all drunk at the tail-end of a stag party at the factory (position of headlights a case in point)... while the S3 is what they designed after sobering up and taking some aspirin

Series 3... loads of parts and relatively sophisticated and comfortable

Below is copied from: Land Rover, Range Rover chassis numbers 895xxxxxx - 895xxxxxx: Series III 88 inch diesel airportable ('Lightweight' - military export) 901xxxxxx - 905xxxxxx: Series III 88 inch petrol 906xxxxxx - 910xxxxxx: Series III 88 inch diesel 911xxxxxx - 915xxxxxx...

As a fellow Yorkshireman I can applaud your frugality at getting a bargain.;) Once you scrape off all the loose rust and sand it down.. try painting it with Smoothrite satin black which has built-in rust stabiliser and inhibitor. I painted my entire rear crossmember and tow fixings and it...

OK, I *think* I know where the switch should go... but I would be grateful if anyone can tell me if I am doing wrong before I potentially screw up my transmission. I can only see one possible place at the back of the box. I have no idea what the special nut with what looks like a slotted head...

I walked into a shop and bought it ! Sorry.. it isn't any more interesting than that! Craddocks list it (Part Num: 575166) as: BRAKELIGHT SWITCH SERVO VEHICLE. ALSO OPTIONAL REVERSE LIGHT SWITCH Since ATO said: Originally Posted by ATO reverse switch is same as the brake light switch...

Well... whilst I obviously have to agree with Grippa! :rolleyes: I have now bought the switch: I just need to know where to stick it !! :D Anyone have a pic of which bit of the gearbox the thing should screw into ?? Thanks

At last.. a useful and sensible reply.. thanks. I will crawl underneath and have a look. Is there likely to be a blanking plug or bolt where the switch should go? Thanks.

The hoop and stick set seem the most expensive bit... by a long way!!

I'd rather drive an Allegro Vanden Plas than a Freelander !!:D

Lucky you.. mine doesn't.. but I don't see one listed on Paddock's website (either in 'Electrical' or 'Gearbox' sections). Can I have yours then ? ;)

Hi Folks, My standard 88' SIII doesn't have a reversing light (or fog light :( ) Does anyone know if it is possible to fit a reverse light switch to the gearbox.. so I can wire up a rear light that comes on when I select reverse gear ?? Many years ago, my second 88' SIII had a reverse...

Wow!.. your tyres must be huge! I have standard 88' LR steel 16' wheels with 235 R70 16 (Maxxis) tyres on. The only benefit since all my component changing is that the speedo needle is rock solid and doesn't dance around like it sometimes did before!!

After sobering up I decided not to torch it !! In fact I double-checked the connection at the clock end... and found that it wasn't pushed right in.... the good news is that the speedometer is working again ! :) The bad news is that in spite of replacing the cable, pinion gear, housing and...