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Many thanks, as ever, for all the useful advice. The great thing is that the above suggestions are based on experience and evidence, not just opinions. My policy with my Japanese import P38 4.0SE is that I replace (within reason) items that are critical even though they might be OK, continuing...

Thinking of fitting an electric fan anyway - anyone got an opinion on the Revotec kit?

Agreed. I think the main thing is that when it does open (starting at 88C I believe) cooling needs to be max effective. No dodgy viscous couplings. Those couplings degrade over time presumably, and no real way of checking them. And from what has previously been said, the temp gauge does not...

That sounds typical JLR - like the "only one solution" tyre pressures - f28 r38 all loads, all speeds, all terrain, all everything. From now to the end of the world (OK, it's not that far away, probably).

Good solution - and I will feel a lot less guilty about leaving the a/c on!

Question: if the a/c condenser fans are on, presumably they are blowing through the radiator as well as the condenser. Ergo having those two fans on also helps cool the engine? Even if the main fan viscous coupling is weak. So leaving the a/c on is good for the engine??? I like that argument!

A tropical thermostat would be good, coupled with an electric fan. I imagine there are electrical fan kits for these (4.0SE) engines? And maybe hot-climate thermostats? We recently fitted a tropical thermostat to my son's 1990 VW Golf GTi: it opens a little earlier, but more interestingly it...

Hmmm, time to get a remote thermometer methinks. On my 1997 4.0SE, the radiator cooling fan has a viscous coupling which I assume is standard, and presumably not temperature-dependent. The manual says that the a/c condenser fans are refrigerant pressure (not temperature) triggered, running in...

Oh boy, another problem I didn't know I might have... P38 running perfectly, but what problems are lurking hidden under the bonnet..??!?

What, do they all do that?? Lulling us into a false sense of security?? How do you know the actual temperatures as you quote above - some attached remote thermometer? Would be a good idea to fit one I think. My gauge needle is at 12-o'clock all the time, like Andrew Tate on a good scenting day.

Good advice - thank you. I believe the problem is air leaking back into the radiator due to bad seal at the o-rings on the radiator cap body. New cap fitted and will report results... Thanks again.

You must have a faulty instrument module - my temp gauge works fine.

Car parked uphill surely means that the radiator is higher and therefore less likely to transfer any air from it into the reservoir? I know there is air in the radiator, as when I take the bleed pipe off, no coolant runs out. What is the reason for pressure-testing the engine? Engine runs fine...

New (pink) coolant seems fine but I am not sure the radiator is fully cleared of air. The reservoir holds pressure OK, but when I remove the cap after a day or two, residual pressure is still there but it makes the most alarming gurgling and spills a bit of coolant. As the cap side seals on the...

I need to take out the radio anyway, to connect a bluetooth input. Looks like it will them be a task for my good lady wife. Thanks for the suggestion, as ever.

Just had the coolant changed on my 1997 4.0SE. They did a pretty good job getting the air out of the rad, and after a few trips I finished the job with a bit of fiddling. After the event, I found from this forum that you can easily clear that tube by squeezing the top hose with the reservoir cap...

Clock not illuminated so I thought it best to remove and check the bulb. The manual says take off the centre console side panels and remove the whole switch panel. The clock appears to be fixed via the rear of the switch panel..?? What a pain - is there no other way to get the clock out??

Just to add some "survivability" info. (These figures are from various internet sources so not guaranteed accurate). It would appear that, of all the P38s produced, about 10% are "on the road". Another 15% are SORN. So that leaves 75% or so scrapped. I note that a lot of people seem to have a...

No "cheap to buy" P38 is ever going to be "cheap to run". People leave them outside in the rain. Some drivers even use them to trash our beautiful green lanes. Mud + salt + wet carpets from a leaky sun-roof. There's a reason why they are "cheap". Here are some pics of my 1997 4.0SE - I think...

I took them off and, based on that classic "fat lass muffin top" comment, I have not replaced them. This P38 is my first Range Rover and arrived with side steps, hence my uncertainty. But the step-free clean look is much better IMHO.