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so basically stuck a known good genuine one and it works perfectly now. no wonder they call them ****part... incidentally my next job is to replace the 6m old britpart bushes

tried the direct earth and it did not make any difference, so im a bit at a loss, guess i will try to buy a new genuine one

Yes, changed the batteries in the fobs

A little update. Managed to source a new (britpart) module. It sort of works, as in it only works if the keys are within 1 foot of the module. Not sure if this is a feature of this britpart pos or i have bigger issues and the module is not getting enough juice. Tonight i will try an earth lead...

i will try to fetch a 3rd one, im still not convinced about the timing, seems too strange in my mind that it happened to break after i was working on the central locking

Rf test was unsuccessful with both receivers... I guess i have two lemons 😭

How do i run an rf test??

1. No, i had never tried it to be honest 2. I clean the contacts, so i hope so. Also it has ground with the bolt. 3. Yes, second and third all worked well before I know it looks like the receiver but what are the odds it chose the exact moment when i was fixing the latch issue to let go 😅😂

So, driver side key lock was not working. After i fixed it and was happy with being able to lock unlock the car manually from the handle, i found out the remote suddenly stopped working. Was working perfectly before and tried different keys. Central locking using the key at the handle and using...

thanks

yes, the other two wires in circuit 15 go straight to the blower unit in the rear, so that is why i feel i can safely assume. In Rave Circuit 15 is associated with ATC (airconditoning)

Going through the electrical connections again, i realized that on the same circuit on C0483 there is indeed a BG wire, so im hoping that it is a simple wire from the blower unit to this connector

thanks!

hi all, managed to pick up this project again. pulled off all the trim and sure enough, the wiring is missing (was sort of hoping i would find all the connectors laying around). Well, looking at the electrical diagrams, I have figured about 90% of what goes where however im puzzled about a...

yeah i guess not much demand in Europe :(

thanks! yes was going to follow this but it was missing how to remove the old seal and fit the new one

thanks for the tips!!

need to change the crankshaft pulley and wondering if i should also replace the seal. currently it is not leaking but no idea what can happen after i have been working on the pulley. question is, any tips on levering the old seal out and pushing the new one in without spending around 400 quid in...

on second examination i found out there is a little too much play on the turbo so gotta spend a few euros as i dont trying to find a vibration makes sense when i have a few known problems.... turbo, ace pump and crank shaft damper... also found out i can stop the engine fan with a piece of paper...

Checked the ecu plug and it had a tiny bit of oil in it. From nanocom, didnt show any codes and there does not seem to be any injector imbalances.