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I THINK they are connected as they should, but i ve been wrong before haha. Is there a clear diagram somewhere? the one on rave is not that good

yes should be fine. actually changing tyres this week , curious to see if i notice any difference

ok, so I would just need to change the high pressure hoses from the valve block to the ram to 3/8?

pump to valve are 10mm ID, the rest are 6mm. They are high pressure hydraulic hoses, rated at 400bar

I have carried out some extensive work on the ace system: replaced all hoses, replaced transducer and now i am at a point where i have no warning lights, no error codes and no weird noises. all good i think, except in my opinion it is leaning a bit too much in the corners, i think it used to be...

Checked the key and indeed it is missing the component that you mentioned

Thanks for clearing that up for me!

Thanks for the info. I'm thinking maybe one of my keys might not be from a discovery then?

No idea buddy but there is no transponder in there. There is actually space for one as the fob itself is used in other models like the BMW Mini which does use a transponder

I have set it up so that the immobiliser is turned off even if the car is opened using the barrel (there is a thread in this forum on how to do it, this avoids the need to use the eka code if the receiver in the roof is ruined) the behaviour im describing is very consistent so i doubt it is just...

A bit of a weird one... I have noticed my keys have different behavior. I noticed that one of the keys works normally and I can even start the vehicle if i unlock it with the key (had set it up to disarm the immobiliser from the key incase the receiver stops working). The second key doesnt...

this is how it looks currently, the hoses are connected to the metal pipes with compression fittings. next i am going to replace the metal pipes tot he actuators since the rubber portion is cracking: so what i have pending is another piece of hose, 10mm ID from the valve block to the high...

yeah, contacted my local hydraulics shop and they can make a hose from the valve block to the RQB000280 hose with a matching fitting, so should be all good!

ok, I have a genuine RQB000280 hose, as I heard making that diy will cause all sort of noises in the cabin. the valve is already tapped but now i plan on eliminating the metal pipes to the actuators and tot he pump. I do plan on leaving the low pressure valve to reservoir as I cannot see...

Looking at the workshop manual I have realised a couple of things... 1. You need to drain coolant and remove thermostat 2. In the factory setup there is no fitting for the new pump-to-block hose as it is one continuous metal pipe. The manual clearly states to 'cut the pipe' . Anyone knows if...

After hearing horror stories of bursting ace hoses, I am revamping the ace system with new hoses and would also like to change the high pressure hose but it seems to be quite hard to get to. I removed the fan, and looks like the pump side is accessible-ish but the other end I cannot even see...

So this is the sensor I used (normal closed type): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282940669176

the bmw coolant bottle is a good idea but since I had the correct proximity sensor in hand i decided to give it a go and delighted that it worked as I hoped it would. I spliced into the wire from the C0223 connector as I still could not find the connectors in the engine bay but turned out...

good to know, did you need to trim the bottom clip/flap in anyway to fit it?

yes, have heard of people complaining about leaks from holes they have drilled into the expansion tank so wanted to avoid that as much as possible, another option is using a coolant tank from an E30 bmw which roughly fits in a disco 2 although i was concerned because the angle of the output port...