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Apologies for the late reply. Ended up bleeding one more time and putting it back to work for a day to see if they were any better. They were not. There's no specific trailer it pulls, there's about 3 different ones, and another 2 trucks which brake them fine. Was mentioned to me that whilst...

Hey, work truck has come in with the problem of a low brake pedal when towing. Have taken it for a drive without a trailer and it brakes perfect, pedal is not too low, and "locks" the wheels no problem. But I've put 3.5 tons on and the brake pedal drops right down near the floor, but then works...

Update. All fixed and running. Although the in tank pump sounded perfectly normal it must have been low on pressure as I swapped it for my spare (don't have a pressure test kit) and it fired up right away. Possibly the most releaving sound I've ever heard ;)

The only other things I changed before doing this work were the non return valve and the air bleeder on the fuel filter housing. But I did have it running for a minute after. Thinking I might put the old air bleeder back in to rule my spare out. Have left it jacked up on the rear end overnight...

Just doubled checked for continiety and they are wired in the same way as the diagram.

Well not really getting any spluttering now.. do you think it's worth swapping the wires? I've disconnected the fuel line at the fpr jist to see what flow is like, it's not the high pressure I was expecting but I don't really know what they are meant to flow like.

As far as I know yes, pin one to 13. It's giving perfect read out though, would it still do that if they were the wrong way round?

I've let the engine light flash for 3 mins, done it twice. Then cranked and it just splutters, if I move my foot down it stop spluttering untill I hit the floor with the pedal and it starts spluttering again

Ran it twice and no luck, seems to be smoking a bit as she cranks too

All finished, good and and not so good news. Crank sensor now reading 300-350 on cranking. Last garage monkeys didn't put the top bolt in starter, and only hand tightened the other two, but overtightened the main feed and snapped part of the solenoid. Now no codes thrown. Bad news is, she is...

Was just checking my good disco with Hawkeye and the injector harness unplugged. She doesn't seem to drop below 11.5 when cranking and shows 270rpm ish. So it's really worth changing the starter..? I've got a spare, it cranks fairly quick and whatnot.. but guess the high current draw could mess...

Can get it just down under 11v after about 4 secs cranking with my cables.. although they aren't the best, and without cables I can get it to jump between 9 and 10v pretty easy

Ok done all that, now she cranks and now she jumps between 0rpm and 230 rpm quite quickly. Sometimes holding at 230 for couple seconds. Have had to put it on jumper leads from my engine.. still no start.. guess I need that extra 20rpm reading. So I'm guessing the cable just isn't good enough or...

I understand, it's just this is a work truck and I'm trying my best to get it back on the road even before the proper cable arrives from online. The cable is maybe a touch thinner bit not by a lot, should I use one core each or double up and use 2 cores each? It looks untwisted. And just leave...

Would this stuff be any use? It's the only kind of shielded stuff I've got. If I earthed the metal shield and just left the other cores in there would that be alright? Cheers

I'll get the proper wiring then. Would you be able to just show me which way round the wires go, as it's different colour wires down on the sensor plug to the ecu and I haven't got electrical digram handy. Thanks

Ok thanks, just for testing purposes can I just use regular wire and keep it as far away from the engine components etc as possible?

Cant say I saw a shim on my manual when I removed the sensor.. but either way this ones an auto so guess it doesn't need it. Is there actually any way to tell if its the starter on an auto, since with the manual you can just bump start it? In all fairness the starter cranks pretty fast etc...

Bump.. I tried putting a temporary washer under the securing bolt that was around 0.5-1mm.. but still roughly the same, maybe once in 30 secs it showed about 200rpm.. really giving up now, was meant to have it back to work tomorrow. The sensor that was on the truck may well be dead, but the...

Hey, so one of the work trucks was getting hard to start etc. Traced it down to crank sensor. Wiring was butchered and had been soldered with no insulation around it. Fixed all the wiring up, put the sensor back in and now have 0rpm with the odd jump to 30. Continuety between the plug and the...