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Hi lynall I've tried a jumper lead made no difference and battery (new) is definitely good spins the crap out of the cars and I've tried two other battery's I have but still slow cranking.think I'll just have to get a new starter will let you know the result.

Battery is good (630cca)have cleaned all the earth straps and connections on starter and battery. Head lights came up brighter but still slow cranking and a pig to start when cold fine once warmed up first turn every time got to be the starter or is there anything else I should check?.

YouTube "parasitic draw" very easy to do just need an avo meter.

Goggle "mot history" and put the reg in always worth a look.

:D that's what I like a simple cheap fix both sides now working and clears a lot quicker than the last screen.

Cheers lynall checked the drivers side screen connector have a circuit on the screen and 12v coming in so looks like a bad connection all cleaned up will see if it now works.

Just had a new screen fitted and only clears the passenger side is there anything I could check or do I have a new broken screen.

Slice the hose with a Stanley down its length on the pipes and peel it open to get it off. Get some hose same Id as original and a bit were it's I'd is the same as original od and make a connection (sealant) if there's no slack available.

Ok thanks everyone funny same sort of feedback as I found on the net the good the bad and the ugly I will be welding outside will have to make a temporary shelter and go gas me thinks never done mig but was very good at arc and oxy acetylene I'm sure I'll pick it up quickly.

Any one out there got,had one of these what are they like is it just a case of the weld not so neat,strong or just crap.need to replace both sills with box section and boot floor and many many other bits.

Heard dull banging from the back and the rear n/s upper shock bush is worn out new shocks 4 months old the shock it replaced done the same thing (changed bush twice).also noticed the tyre is showing a lot of ware on the outside edge but may have been moved from the front I can't be sure.

My alarm fob (two button) packed up a few weeks ago found one of the three battery holder contacts had broke a bit of solder and fixed but after parked up overnight won't unlock unless I press the lock button four times only then do the indicators flash then can lock and unlock as normal it was...

Imposter!...no one who owns a land rover would be smart enough :p to use a word like idios....idiosyn.....idiosyncra......that big word you used.

:D sorted :D

Think I've found the problem a split vac line will see if it's sorted the problem on the way to work tonight.

Set at 70mph all is fine until I go up a hill I can feel the throttle pedal going down but engine doesn't respond until I tap the pedal down just a little more then revs come up and back to 70 again drives perfectly fine driving without the cruise on vac leak?. 97 EDC

For the hell of it thought I'd check the solder joints on the battery holder and two looked iffy and the center one had snapped off...bit of soldering and now works perfectly just saved myself £75 :D.

Tried resync no sings of life totally dead but thanks for the help.and thanks discool don't think I'll get a new fob and programed for less than £75 so going to put an order in.

My alarm fob died today tried changing the battery but still no job this is for a 97 edc I believe spider bypass will not work on this..new fob costs £40 how much is it to be programmed or is this dealership only job?.

Just got back from Belgium heard a bit of banging from the back and found both rear shock upper nuts loose and I'm sure there suppose to be nylon lock just need to know size ??? M12 1.5 ???.