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I looked into this and the information isn't that clear. What i could gather was that ACF 50 is a liquid and that Corrosion block is a thicker liquid version of the ACF 50 which is for more abrasive environments like sea going vessels and so on. Other than the thickness, they are the same but i...

Still if you use a pulley block or 2, the small winch would give you the pulling power of the big one. I've honestly never used a winch or ever seen anyone use one so I might be dreamin

I had a quick gander and ATV winches, a around 40KG :eek: the 6t ones more akin to a defender are arond 70KG :eek::eek:

I would be interested in this too. As much of a pain it would be to mount it, for the sake of having it in the cabin in a dry environment appeals to me for it would be for emergencies only. Not only that i have a 2" receiver on the back so in essence i could chose either front or rear giving...

i had the same but less extreme on my build. I first used all available play in hinges to shimmy it across. There wasn't much movement but with some brute force it did settle where i wanted it. Not sure if this is the prescribed method but if that isn't enough i'd elongate the hinge holes both...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/vehicle-wiring-colour-codes.49889/ WP(white / purple trace) = V8 pump apparently.

Forte Bio Degreaser will provide the following benefits: Remove emulsified oil from cooling systems following cylinder head gasket and oil cooler failure: Remove blockages from radiator and heater matrix where oil has emulsified: Remove residue left from combustion gases permeating through...

Love that.

Jizer would work well, used on a warm engine for a short trip around the block to scavenge all the oil. Not tried this, jut a thought. I cant see it doing harm if you then triple flushed the lot out after with clean water then toped up with AntiFreeze.

my oil was going down at an alarming rate!

compression passing past the valves. One valve had no clearance at all. The flow in my breather pipe is markedly less now as before it was more than i would expect plus it was full of oil all the way through the IC and into the inlet, sopping wet with oil. I cant confirm if its stopped burning...

Hey Al, I've wanted to say that my own engine was burning oil like mad and quite a lot of flow was in the breather pipe heading towards the air filter so over the last few weeks I've just gone through sorting all the glitches and 1st service items. What I've found is that the combination of...

turn over wit solenoid off just get oil around engine and prime fuel pump. Thats the proper way. ALso new fluids throughout and remember to fill powersteering fluid, unlike me, and cook the pump.

farmers, they always either have old ones or know of them.

change email and see if that does it. I've found BT to be pretty crap

tannic acid

stiff pump perhaps, indicating its close to grenading itself. This was what mine did anyway, before it ceased solid at 60mph..... was interesting.

When the going gets tough, the tough get going !! True what you say though, but perseverance and if nothing else, rebuilding a Land Rover learns you to be positive thinking, because without that you are screwed heheh. No on should be deluded that you can properly rebuild a Defender for less...

im not a mechanic, but from the little i know, sounds like the syncro mesh wotsits have grenaded themselves. Also, when i replaced mine, that clip for the arm does nothing but temporarily hold the clutch pauwls in place whilst mating the LT77 to the engine. Incidentally mine rattles like a...

im guessing the valves are the problem. Did you inspect the seats and checked that they were sealing ?