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So a 'tested and working' ECU is now installed and the problem is still here. Exactly the same behaviour. Ignition on and within a few seconds ABS Fault pops up... Maybe I'll go back to looking at those connectors.

Interesting reading... To me, this shows that my BECM is most likely in a 'locked' state... although the icon on your Nanocom appeared to have an unlocked padlock icon on the 'BECM' item, I'm guessing that there's actually another field/menu somewhere that shows the true status of the BECM -...

Thanks everyone. So... these white connectors, I will get around to soldering and heatshrinking them to avoid any issues in the future. However, are these connectors a possible cause of my ABS Fault? I've heard on some threads that they do have ABS related connections, but then some say that...

Just found this snippet from the 1999 manual: The only one applicable here would be number 2, but that seems to be specific to when you've switched the engine off and then opened the door... not the other way around.

Just a small update... I've looked at the 2 white connectors in the passenger footwell, and I have a tiny bit of corrosion... Loads of WD-40 'Specialist' Contact Cleaner, and disconnected and reconnected the connectors loads to ensure a good mate between all pins, but no change in behaviour...

That's interesting, the the ones I can find on eBay to match mine (part number the same as yours) are all £100+ for tested units. Still not a bad deal considering it could get my abs back and working without faults on the dash.

Thank you, have checked the ECU multi connectors themselves (3 of them from memory) and they all appeared fine, as did the ECU pins. I believe someone has mentioned elsewhere that there are connectors in the A pillar/passenger footwell that corrode too, so I should check those too... And then...

Hi all, I've got a 2000 P38 4.0 HSE Auto I know that P38 ABS faults are incredibly well documented across various forums, however I had my P38 scanned with a Nanocom today (thanks @DanClarke) and there are 0 faults reported. This is odd, because I have a persistent fault that says "ABS fault"...

I've made an interesting find on a different forum... And this is really bizarre... The important quote is as follows: This relates specifically to a Discovery II I believe, but the behaviour is pretty much exactly what happens to me, except the jump wire that someone has installed between my...

Thanks for your time today @DanClarke ! We found with Dan's Nanocom that my BECM is... Peculiar. I don't have any EKA codes, or fob codes stored in the ECU. We also found that I have a current P1668 code which is "anti theft alarm serial link fault" (signal too low) which was currently...

Thanks for the input everyone. It's an odd one indeed... Hopefully a Nanocom is able to tell me what the issue is and it will lead me to a resolution, whether that's a proper immobiliser bypass like the ones Simon creates at ECUX, or if I send my ECU away to have the immobiliser properly...

Yes it does show D or R on the dash whilst it cranks, which is very weird. I've had the covers off from under the steering column, and I can see that a wire has been spliced in from the back of the ignition switch directly to the fuse box... So I'm guessing someone has rigged the ignition...

The plot thickens... It sounds like something could have been done to mine, as it will crank when it is in Drive/Reverse, and it cranks when immobilised... although now I'm not sure if it is actually immobilised or not, as there are no messages on the dash. DanClarke has kindly offered to plug...

I've tested with a more accurate meter and I'm reading 12.46 V.. Based on DanClarke's reply about voltages, this would probably be OK/Passable. Will check for wet carpet + underlay in the drivers footwell, thank you. I've been in contact with Simon at ECUX who produces immobiliser bypass...

I don't get any messages on the dash when it doesn't start, just the indefinite cranking :(

Ok makes sense as to why mine cranks then. I haven't tried anything yet, I figured that if the fobs unlock the vehicle remotely then their batteries are probably OK. Interesting that a couple of posts have referenced by engine battery now, I will see if I can test with a more accurate meter as...

Oh interesting! As it cranks over so happily I assumed that 12.0 was OK. I'm learning that the P38 is a sensitive beast. RE the Nanocom - That's a really generous offer, thank you! OK to PM you to arrange a time? Thanks again.

12.0 Is that on the low side?

The free one 'EASUnlock Suite' only does air suspension, but the paid one 'EASUnlock V4' says that it does ABS/BECM/Engine etc.. some live data and some feature enable/disable functions.

Thanks all for your prompt and useful replies, this forum is excellent. I did search both for the specific P1667 code and for general 'no start' or 'immobiliser' issues, but most threads end with people recommending a re-sync (with a SyncMate for example)... However, as my issue is...