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:rolleyes: Seems that you missed that it passed a stall test with low power result which has nothing to do with it's age, weight or mileage... it means that the engine doesnt deliver enough power...period

Then as the EGR was deleted the MAF is useless as about points 1 and 2: So when the injectors were refurbished did you set the new codes then? cos if they didnt get new codes that was a botched up job you can't rely on that cos it seems that you ruled out almost everything and as the stall...

Is it Eu2 or Eu3 engine?

If you removed the rust before using Fertan it's not a surprise to be useless... it needs a "decent" layer of rust to work well and better applied on wet surface, i'm a big fan of it, even if it has a milky colour my chassis looked like it was painted in black after i applied it

Seems that the converter didnt do it's job, the rust should have become very black... i didnt use Hydrate myself but I recommend Fertan, it's the best i used after i tried others like Vactan, Nigrin and Koroplex.

Yes, that's a good place to start, next is the engine bay fusebox power connections or it can be a bad contact within it i dont know much about the cip, unfortunately i dont have a clear enough picture, i'll take a better one when i get in there again, looks like this

Next time when it happens turn on the headlights and push the horns and if those are dead as well it's a main power supply issue not the interior fusebox cos the horns are not conncted to that i dont know what you mean by mcu , the interior fusebox is called IDM(inteligent driver module), a...

Hi, first of all check if the battery clamps are tight and main earth lead is well connected to body... if these are OK it's a bad contact somewhere, can be at the engine bay fusebox too, for the interior fusebox you need one removed from facelift D2, disconnect the battery negative lead before...

It could mean to rule out the copper washers first

It won't, i used it in mine as preventative maintainance when i replaced the fuid about 12 years ago and the ACE is working well while the rear actuator is the original 24 years old and still dry as a bone. The front leaked a bit before the additivated fluid change and it was refurbished by...

P0600 has nothing to do with starting, it's a CAN bus code would affect gear change on autos, make sure there is power to the main relay R9 and swap it with R8 for test

See the injector balances at idle with diagnostic tool... a bad injector will have higher value at the beginning while the others will try to compensate and all the values will start rising... if they are all moving within +/- 4 it's OK

You'l know when the leak will be massive enough to drop the fluid in the tank.... if it's just weeping at the seal you could try this https://www.stp.com/uk/product/power-steering-fluid-with-stop-leak/

No such thing, all of them should do the trick no matter what year is the engine, try to pump it more than 5 times in one second sequences and throttle fully depressed/released each time...if still no joy might be a TPS or ECU issue...is the ECU the original? if you dont know check the label on...

If it's like in the picture means that the injector copper washers are leaking combustion gas into the fuel rail ... if the o-rings are leaking it will be fuel in oil but no engine running issues unless the sump was flooded

What about what i said about the ECU red plug cos you quoted me but didnt mention anything about that especially that you've got an injector related code?... Can be also leaking injector copper washers so start with that, you can lift them out with an allen key or other improvisation to hook...

IMO better fit new like these https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/discovery-2-propshaft-universal-joint-heavy-duty-gkn-x2/

👍 I'm glad you found te culprit

You'll need new actuator or find specialised store where they can rebuild such parts cos they exist... no DIY rebuild kit available

Next time when the fob refuses to work unlock then lock with key without opening the door and try the fob then, if no joy and you have to insert EKA again start with replacing the RF receiver and if the symptom still persists you'll have to change the BCU... btw do you have two fobs and does the...