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Hi, the most common is the tank to pump pipe's metal side where it passes near the sump(pointed with red)...it used to rub there hence that foam protection on it which is not good enough... or the PAS box's output shaft seal

It's p'n is i the first link i posted, google out XZQ000080 and choose what brand you want of similar bulb

Here's a simpler version https://www.powerbulbs.com/eu/vehicles/cars/uk-ireland/land+rover/discovery/2003-2004/car-headlight-bulbs

Hi, here you go: https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/hierarchy/id/14.55783.56191/brand/land-rover/_gl/1*1oyej0q*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTAxNzY1MzIuMTczMTI1NTU0MA..*_ga_6WEX61NFXZ*MTczMTI1NTU0MC4xLjAuMTczMTI1NTU0MC4wLjAuNjYwNjEzMTE4/ go step by step in all and always choose the p/n "from...

Maybe not relevant for this topic but afaik only 15Ps had factory fitted catalyst

Then read again post nr.2

Now i'm confused, is it about "3 amigos" or the SLS? ICarsoft used to be reliable with SLABS fault codes but that's about max it can do for a D2 so if you have the 3 amigos and only those suspension codes there is a more complicated issue.... eventualy post a pic with the warning lights on the...

Hi. Those fault codes have nothing to do with 3 amigos cos they are about SLS ... was it converted to coils? ... you need a more reliable diagnostic tool to read the fault codes RR ABS sensor would not work for a D2

no, here's about D2 https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/interior-lights.379040/#post-5357685

Wasn't hard for me....but i can remove the interior one too in few minutes.

Hi, the door switch inputs are going into the MFU, you should get earth when you open the driver's door on the PG wire pin 18 of MFU's plug(C205) for the lamp to come on... if you get that input when you open the door and the lamps are still not coming on you must check if that earth is coming...

You dont know far enough :) ... actually it's not the best setup by LR cos for aircon it should work more that it was designed to based on outside temperature(from 28*C or above), the inside setting has nothing to do with it hence i hacked it to kick in every time the A/C is on otherwise the...

Yes, B6 but i have no lift

Yes, the crank sensor's signal provokes it which can have various causes... as the sensor is very old you should start with that if you are up to pay genuine or at least premium branded one... going for unbranded or cheap aftermarket can be wasted small money without ruling it out.

that was not my point ... i meant that if they say "equivalent" for the LR part number they should fit to shocks which have the LR part number as well... i have no ideea how they'll feel, it's a risk when you fit allmakes or sh*tparts or unbranded aftermarkets... there are branded replacements...

No, nothing below 2V drop is relevant in this particular case so as long as you have above 12V at the pump but the mV reading on the fuse is below 21mV something is wrong with the pump corroborated with the gauge reading so better replace that or remove the T piece and measure pressure that way...

That's classic symptom for LP cos untill the system was sealed it ran on residual pressure once released and no HP present they used to not start anymore

They say it's equivalent of ROA100050 which is the LR part number so they should be the same...

Check the voltage on the pump's connector across the two pins while it's running, if it drops below 12V check between the live pin and body and if it's the same it's a contact issue somewhere if OK against earth the problem is on the earth path but if it doesnt drop i'd say that the pump is gone...

See the pump's drain cos it sems it's running only on LP : https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/check-td5-fuel-pump-hp.358086/ .... though what's that 114*C reading ???