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I am far from a hero, all this is research, and it could be wrong at that, we won't know until you decide to try something. Do keep us posted on what you decide. Shop around for prices on the solenoids, there are a few places I hear in the UK that have better prices then the dealers.

Read the posts from Vertuas in this thread, it seems to match your issue: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/auto-box-jumping-gear-shift-solenoid-problem-234331.html This also matches this technical info: http://atsg.com/atsg/facebook/12-24.pdf The most common sticking Solenoids on the 09A are...

Some stuff: The coolant expansion tank changed 3 times, the one last had a stronger neck In the 1.8 Petrol in 2005(or is it 2006) an additional sensor for coolant level was added The automatic transmission in the V6/TD4 had its intermediate speed sensor removed in mid 2004 (post facelift) the...

I would test the solenoids first and then test the pressure for the reverse piston (that "piston" also is involved in the gear change of 2 to 3)

Think of a paint can cover is the best explanation I have heard

I think you have the hairline crack on the reverse piston, notice it is a crack on the surface and not cracking the piston in pieces. See here for a recent member: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/help-jatco-td4-auto-box-252796.html Notice here from ATRA...

This website shows which part is compatible between transmissions Brand. http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/JF506E.html

Difundida you mean? As in not popular ? Tell you transmission specialist to treat it like a Volkswagen Jeta transmission 09A for testing. It's almost the same internals some slight change here and there. The Mazda JA5AL electronics are a bit different but the clutches and pistons are mostly the...

Ok what about going into reverse, any problems when cold (when you just start the car) or when warm (at the end of driving for a good 15 30 minutes) ? So next step is to test the solenoids https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTmdkDuKZ6A The transmission computer module (TCM) will only give...

What if you manually gear change, does it change right away or it slips? Meaning it takes more time or higher rpm to change gear. Is this both going up in gears or also going down in gears?

So let's focus on symptoms. If you go on the highway at 100 km/h. Do the gear change normally from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 ? Or is higher rpm needed to gear change ?

I will use a very wordy post in case you are not an english speaker. I would be very careful in just throwing parts at this (this means changing parts with no specific diagnosis) A lot of general mechanics do not know this transmission very well, and just mention things here and there...

Here is p1844. Look at this picture. At this point I would test the solenoids to see if they all test well. That is the first step.

Quick question, why not change the solenoids first? What is wrong with your valve body ?

Did you try swapping the objected with another to see if the problem moves with the injector ?

Glad to hear. If it changes I still have my notes on where we left off here.

N283 changes base on different voltage it will partially open based on voltage. Very hard to test. Most Volkswagen owner just change the whole 9 but if I were you I would take a gamble and change this one. Unless you have a mechanism to manually test it out of the valve body at different voltages.

The Mazda manual around page 97 or so Automatic Transaxle Workshop Manual JA5A-EL Found here http://forum.mpvclub.com/viewtopic.php?t=24788 It's in black and white. I hear the the atsg book is good but I have never seen it...

The Land Rover Argentina forums has posts with quantities and type of fluid. I will not link to it, but feel free to google it.

Thanks for letting us know. Did you change the clutch pack after all?