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If you say it starts fine when cold but not when hot, I had the same thing on my V6. A new camshaft position sensor cured it. A BMW one was compatible and much cheaper on eBay. More details: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/kv6-freelander-warm-starting-problems.288937/

Another option some have done is to open the intake manifold (called inlet manifold on this board and that side of the Atlantic) and take everything out and run without variable intake.

Thanks for all the pictures. Keep us posted!

The angle seems good thanks for the picture. The other thing to make sure is to tighten the Allen key bolt on the tensioner. Some report of that bolt being only finger tight (as in able to untighten with only fingers and not using any wrench or Allen key) Many people have commented to replace...

Hi comdek. Was the tensioner already tighten properly according to the info I pointed out? Supposedly some tensioner come from factory properly and some do not.

Did you change the tensioner? The idea I am suggesting is that the tensioner might not have been adjusted when replaced during the last belt change, thus been a bit too slack and allowing the pump to slip as shown by the marks on the belt. It would slip when more "work" was required of the...

This scraping might mean the pump was rubbing against the engine block. This would for sure restrict flow. If you put the old pump against the engine block in its hole, does it feel like it is rubbing when you spin it by hand ? I wonder if the pump impeller moved up on its shaft over the years...

I apologize but I don't understand what you are saying. "It boiled well". Do you mean it never overheated in that situation or it did overheat in that situation ?

Well I got my reply. The honda tools will not work (The Rover 75 V6 has the same engine) http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=205137 This guy shows how he made his own tool for the fly wheel and his locking pin: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=204919

Here are some other ideas no ideas how far fetch (impossible): if the transmission or the IRD are overheating somehow, when you are testing at idle and stationary, it will not over heat, yet if you drive, the heat gets picked up. A way to test might be to run the Freelander stationary but at...

Oops sorry guys I miss the part that this was to remove the pulley. I still don't know what the interior dimensions of the Crank Pulley are. if they are 50 mm a Honda tool will work. If not, you can make your own using some pipe pieces: Some ideas here: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/

To make a locking pin, use a drill and a file and a bolt. Put the bolt in the drill and rotate against the file. Time consuming but cheap.

Buying a new cap is not for sure. I have seen one new one faulty. Did you test the cap properly?

So the abs airbag and unlock modules are what is left ?

I am starting to wonder if the expansion tank cap might not be faulty preventing the system for properly pressurizing. Have you tested the cap? I know of two V6 Freelander that had an issue of bad coolant expansion tank cap.

If you are who I think you are, did you try your own code scanner on it ? What modules from the TD4 freelander work and which ones do not work ?

The 2000ish Honda Civic axle nut appears to be the same size and thread pitch. Might be easier to source locally for you, for me it sure is. I have yet to test it though.

My solution was to use a 3/4 inch socket, 3/4 breaker bar, and 6 feet of 1 inch steel pipe. I used the pipe as a sleeve on the breaker bar, and I literally just pushed down on it. At 6 feet away from the point of pressure, it did not take a lot of force.

Anyone have any suggestions on how they manage this?

Since the KV6 Freelander uses the same camshaft position sensor as the BMW 3 series (E90), I wonder if the TD4 sensor would also come from BMW. If you search on eBay for this part number: 1362779464, the parts seem to match visually. Finding a cheap one from China might be worth the experiment...