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As what Grumpy said above. I've ordered recently and parts from LRDirect were quick to get here. Rimmers a very good too but their freight prices are currently quite high. Expect delays in shipping at the present time. Wouldn't it be easier if you got the bits sent directly to you?

Oil seal Diff unit to driveshaft = TRX100060LP1 = OEM Available at Rimmers... My LH one wept, even after I changed it. I think the actual drive shaft was slightly worn where that oil seal sat so I eventually replaced the driveshaft too, and that seal again just to make sure. No more oil weep.

As rob_bell has said the 1.8 petrol is not a difficult motor to work on and well within the DIY ability. They have slightly better performance that the L series diesel but then the L series is a better tow car. I'm well into motor DIY with mine and am exploring some interesting head/motor mods...

My penny-worth: First up there is this link here which offers a guide as to possible repurchase test you could explore. There are other posts on here about just what to look for - they make for interesting reading. The diesels seem to be the pick of the FL1 although I enjoy my K series 1.8! The...

Interested? - I sure am! Does that software run on a MacBook, or do I need to acquire a PC laptop? Maybe add the step by step to your fab K engine page too?

First day of spring tomorrow! Still moving on this project. Yesterday I 'flowed' the oil pump as per the K series Engine page. I've resealed number 3 cylinder's liner. Was a fiddly job even with the motor on its stand. I cut up an old oil rail and used the bits to screw the head bolts in...

Interesting. Yes new liners can be fitted and are not that expensive [OEM £24 incl at Rimmers]. May even be able to reuse existing pistons... but probably good to fit new rings...

Thank you for your thoughts. I can only guess that a turbo kit, even if they are still available, would cost more than the value of my car, which might be £500 to £1000 on a good day! An electric supercharger was about £900 iirc., so again well out of my budget. I guess that to date I've spent...

Hi Alibro, It hasn't taken a hell of a lot of time or ££ as of yet. I bought some TC burrs off the 'net and a cheap die-grinder... and a scrap head to practise on. I had a chuck extension made too - very handy that bit. I read a lot on the internet. Especially informative sites include the...

I believe there are 2 temp sensors. On on the inlet manifold for the incoming air temp', coloured green , and the other on the coolant 'outlet elbow' which is just above the exhaust manifold, black [ MEK000030 ] or could be blue [ YCB100420 - needs a different seal [ MDY100080]]. Hope that helps.

Thank you all! @Nodge68 I have the inlet set-up on hand. Will I need to swap over the fuel injectors? I'm going to reshape the inlet port to inlet manifold 'interface' where the castings has a misalignment of about 2mm. I'll trim the gasket to match as the stock ones don't. Will I suffer any...

'Winter project' is now well underway. I got a scrap head to practice on and now I'm well into modding the head I'm going to swap over. Exhaust side mostly done and I've started on the inlet side. I'll send the head off to have the valves unshrouded 2mm, the valves given a 30º back cut and their...

Thanks for the comments gents. I'll organise to replace the brake fluid soon and see if that helps. There's about 3+mm remaining on the brake shoes so I'll probably replace them too.

On the left nearly halfway down on the WoF assessment sheet there is the section "B Road Test" Brake performance is listed as a % figure - Minimum is 50% and mine is commonly just above that!

Better braking would be nice. The main concern for me is that, as it is, I'm continually close to failing the Wof / MoT which looks at the braking effort as a % :( I'm no race driver, quite conservative actually, so in my opinion the brakes work satisfactorily. I did do my own test. At 80kmh on...

My brakes are not great. They have been like that since I've owned the car, bought in 2014. At our WoF time, MoT in the UK, the foot brake test returns 50 to 60 %. There's plenty of meat on the brake pads and shoes. The callipers had seal kits fitted about 3 years ago and new standard pads went...

That's a very informative graph! Thank you. I've been comparing the part numbers on the cams I have with what's listed on rimmers and trying to work out where the FL1s fit into the scheme of things. I'd come to the conclusion that the 1.4, 1.6 & 1.8 pretty much used the same cams. Part numbers...

Do you have the cam spec's that are associated with the different cams? There is some info on this web page re MGF 1.8i [18K4F...] and the early 1.8VVC [18K4K...]. i was wondering about the K engined Rovers like the 200 and 25 as well as the MG ZRs and the FLI of course.

Mine has J79 - is that the st'd K series 1.8 for a Freelander ? It also has the manual tensioner. Are you able to post that info so we can all work out how our FL motors began life? ie from an MG, Rover, LR...?

That is an interesting idea! Personally I'd probably do that cam side as the next step. I'm quite keen on option #1 above but with the larger valves installed and the back trimming done too. Only one way to find out really and that's to give it a go. Like I said, it's my winter project so I'll...