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I'm now beginning to wonder about the battery, it's still under warranty until next month but again hard to prove a fault to claim.

OK so before I removed the battery from the car I checked the current draw again. Once the BECM has gone to sleep the reading is 0.068a if I disconnect the live feed to the LPG ecu it drops to 0.024a. The battery is on the bench, before I connected the charger the voltage read 12.2v. Will charge...

Doing it now. :) This is the battery. https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/g8/

That what I thought, might be my eyes that's why I want to to it again. Think it may have been 13.25v not 14 think that was the charger voltage.

I did do that last week, charged it on the bench and it settled at 14.22v 24hrs later it was 14.18v but I am going to do it again. I have a smaller battery I can use to test current drop etc but not big enough to run the car on though.

So went out to start up this morning and battery is flat again. Started with my Noco Lithium jump pack OK but the battery voltage when off is only 12.15v. Have plugged in the Ctek again and will wait for it to charge up again before I do more investigation. Think it may be a case of...

Well it's been sitting not plugged into my Ctek since Friday and this morning it fired up first time. Battery is charging OK so crossed fingers it seems to be fixed.

Will do.

That would be really helpful. Thank you.

Just tested my lighting board to see if the trailer light on the dash flashes and it doesn't. The lights etc work but what a pain. Had a look online but the correct cable doesn't seem to be listed anywhere so will have to look out for a used one. Started OK this morning will have to wait until...

It was the grey one and it's associated mess looking like the issue. Don't normally tow with the P38 as my car tows my trailer well enough.

It was a complete bodge up wires chopped into and scotch lock connectors plus the uninsulated circuit board just stuffed in the back of the light fitting. The other side is also scotch lock connectors but nothing else, they have spliced into the wires going to the connector for the RR towbar...

Looks like it's the towbar, removed the shoddy connections behind the nearside rear light and the current draw seems to have stopped. This feed goes to a grey plug that I think is only used for caravans. It's all disconnected now so am quite hopeful it's the issue. Will need to see now it is...

So everyone who said check the towbar electrics. I found this pcb sitting in the nearside rear light hatch, just wanging around not insulated and connected with crimp on connectors. A right mess.

So none of the under bonnet fuses are causing an issue but as soon as I pull F14 the current draw drops to 24ma so looks like that's the culprit. Will have to look it up now.

The current draw is 3.5a when the BECM is awake and 170ma when it's asleep so too high. It drops from 3.5a to 660ma initially then after another couple of mins drops to 170ma. So pulling fuses now.

Charged the battery yesterday and then left it on the bench overnight it showed 13.3v and this morning 13.1v so that suggests the battery is OK. Going to reconnect it later and see if I can eliminate things. All good fun

Yeah, found him this morning. The towbar plugs are pretty manky and as I don't use it will see if I can remove them easily. Std stereo, will check the headlight wipers. I took some current readings before I took the battery off . There is a 0.4a reading once the BECM has gone to sleep. With...

It's putting out 14.4v at tick over so that ought to be OK. I charged the battery with the Ctek on the car whilst the alternator was off being repaired and left it standing for 4 days without any driving and the Ctek disconnected. It then was flat enough not to be able to turn over. Will take...

Same with this guy he's in his 70's and has nobody to follow on from him, the expertise will be lost when he can't do it anymore...