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Earth point on behind the foot well trim on the OS A post is very clean, no sign of corrosion or oxidised copper on the wires connected to it: Couldn't find one on the NS:

Did a quick search were the A post connectors the earth points on the inside of the A post? So far only found anything on the OS

Under the EAS box? Couldn't see any under it, only on the inner wing next to it Might need some pics of what I'm looking for!

So, an odd day. Having been through all the connectors, male and female, I could find nothing wrong and everything was nice and snug fitting. I reassembled and refitted the unit and plumbed it back in. I started the engine and left the driver's door open to let it fill the reservoir. With...

Couldn't find anything wrong with the Female Sockets going to the solenoids, have tightened all of them so it's now a really snug fit now the connectors are joined back up again

I've got some spare pins and sockets from some clone 'Tyco AMP' type connectors to test with

The the pins on the Male one of the 'C139' pair all looked pristine when I popped each one out to check the wire crimps to the pins. I need to tackle the female part next I'm reliably informed it could just be the car being a P38 and needing to be cycled a number of times for it to finally...

Yeah figured it out using the C152 connector diagram. All the Male Pins on the connectors were absolutely fine and really clean. No sign of oxidation or failed crimps so far. Going to look at the Female socket sides now

Indeed they are, there's a row of them sitting at the bottom of your pic of the de-potted Driver Pack, and they were the suspects in my more electrically savy mates diagnosis of the potential problem. Still digging through RAVE looking for the wire colours for the Driver Pack input, although I...

Roger I've just run through all the solenoids through their connectors (the 13 way for the main 6 and the 2 way for the Diaphragm) with a 9V battery and they all fired just fine, so the Valve pack itself *should* be ok I was just about to have a dig through RAVE to find the wiring guide for...

We did have all the solenoids firing yesterday when testing the direct. It was only the Exhaust Solenoid that wouldn't respond to a command from the ECU. The signal was getting from the ECU to the Driver Pack, however there didn't appear to be an out put from the Driver Pack to the Exhaust...

When we probed the back (pushing a ~0.5mm 'probe' past the rubber wire seal) of the connector pins and sockets on each side of the connector block we found good continuity on the ones we tested, especially the wires for the Exhaust Solenoid From what you are both saying I need to go have a dig...

Anyway pics: Loctite, even the weak one = bad idea: Cracked potting on Driver Pack:

Yeah, going to keep rumaging, but without my mates here who are full on electronics people I am way out of my depth! Got quite the e-mail trail going with them all, one of them is seeing it as an excuse to get a hot air re-work station...while another already has one!

In Wammers guide he linked to a copy of the O/E Land Rover System Information Document: http://p38a.net/p38a/2014/01/04/EAS%20-%20System%20Information%20Document.pdf That shows that one of the wires to the Solenoid is at 12V, while the signal 'Hit and Drop' sue to the waveform will measure at...

I used brake cleaner and my air compressor to blow through the plastic air lines on the car then left it 24 hours before plumbing everything back in. It was just a precaution as it had been stood disconected for months, granted with the line opening taped over, but just in case. I've just...

Bit of a desperate long shot; but does anyone in the sane vicinity of Tonbridge happend to have a spare known good P38 EAS pump and valve block unit or even just the Driver Pack I could perhaps borrow/buy to test my suspension? I'm having a battle trying to get my EAS system working after a...

Forgot to say when I opened up the valve block to check that I had put the NRV's back in the correct order during the rebuild (I had) there was no sign of any desiccant powder inside. I replaced the desiccant in the drier unit as part of the valve block rebuild (all new seals and diaphragm) and...

Do the wire connections on the Driver Pack dry joint then?

No worries it's dark now and I'd have to de-pressurise to get tge valve block off to unbolt the Driver Pack. Also loctiting all the bolts securing the valve block together and the Driver Pack to it when I rebuilt it has resulted in one sheared cap head from tge Driver Pack mount :/