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From what I remember, the threaded part was part of a "fibre" piece, which was shaped to fit the inside of the hose. I assumed this was moulded into the hose and due to age, it had fallen apart. The bleed screw screwed into this part. This is all I remember, I didn't take that much notice...

Yes, I remember finding everything that had gone missing. It's just that it was no longer usable. I tried putting it back, not an easy job, but it didn't seal the hose. I think the "insert" must be moulded into the hose somehow. It was the original hose, so I wasn't too worried it had failed...

I had this happen too. I did find the bit, I think it was a thread in a fibre moulding, shaped to the inside of the hose. I think I found it in the hose itself, not completely certain, but I was probably lucky. I tried many ways of refitting it, but nothing worked, so I had to get a new hose.

Mine took almost all of a 5L can when I last did it.

+1^^^

The PAS pump drives the coolant pump, not a good idea to remove it!

You can’t remove the PAS pump, it drives the coolant pump. = instant new cylinder head!!

Well done, I’m glad you are at least part the way there!

I suppose it's possible a previous owner changed the EKA code to something more "sensible".

I don't think you could enter three 15s without making an error!

For the EKA, there is no digit '0', 10 would be 'A', 11='B' and so on (there is nothing after 'F'). Could 7099 be your radio code?

Well, at the risk of starting an argument, I would say “yes”, just a little odd. 5, F, F, F, where F=15 in hexadecimal, so it is a 4 digit code, 5, 15, 15, 15. I hope it works!

OK, it's probably a 10P engine then. Mine did something very similar when the MAF played up, but mine is a 16P (2004). I don't believe the MAF is used in the same way on the 10P.

+1^^ But have you done a stall test? What year is the D2?

What about the camshaft front blanking plug? The fan blows any leaking oil all over the engine. Don’t ask me how I know that!!

Do you mean just the key, or the remote fob? I think the remote fob is needed to re-mobilise but @sierrafery is the real expert here.

I don’t know of any way of getting the immobiliser off without the EKA code or the correct remote fob, sorry.

Oops, how stupid am I?? Try https://twinwoods4x4.co.uk/product/td5-oil-cooler-blanking-plug/

All the ECUs share the same communication line on the diagnostic socket, so any faulty ECU could stop communication with the engine ECM, even though the ECM itself may be perfectly OK. Can you communicate with the BCU for example or with nothing? Is the ECM and BCU getting power?

+1 ^^^ I got mine from eBay. This link gives you the LR part number, good value but they are out of stock!!