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I would compare results with one or more of the other wheels if you try this ^^^. The older ABS system used simple passive sensors which would output AC, whereas the newer ones might be two-wire Hall sensors which require a power supply.

Yes - if you follow the injector pipes back to the common rail you’ll see a sensor on the right hand side of it, as you look into the engine bay. Check the plug and harness for corrosion. HP regulator O ring probably next step.

You’d think so, but no. Thanks for the replies.

New brake pipes needed all round for MoT, and from bitter experience I’ve ordered all flexi hoses and new wheel cylinders so I can replace the whole lot rather than fighting with crusty unions. Because the wheel cylinder bolts are often tricky, I ordered four of them too, but they’re out of...

That sounds unethical. Awaiting AG troll in 5...4....3...

Check the clutch reservoir and gearbox levels, then get under and lubricate the gear linkage. Otherwise, as above.

An intermittent crank signal could cause all of those things.

@andyfreelandy has a point about the crank sensor - certainly worth a look. A clogged or poor quality fuel filter could be collapsing internally, or putting extra strain on the pump and causing it to fail. If you can hear it running during starting problems, and get good pressure values, then...

This might be a case of catching the fault in the act. I take it the diagnostics were done while the car was running fine? Can you hear the fuel pump running (right-hand rear wheel arch) when it refuses to start? It should whirr when the key is in position II. When was the fuel filter last...

Bought this one as well! Thanks. I’ve spent a lot of time cursing plastic clips, and vowing vengeance on the designer.

Perfect - all ordered. Thanks very much.

I need to fit a new mirror assembly to the left front door, but can’t find a suitable set of plastic rivets/studs for putting the door card back in. There’s only one busted so far, which is for the little tweeter speakers right next to the mirror mount. Anyone got a part number/link?

Guessing is the fun part! Although I’ve never liked magic shows, because they never reveal the trick. A bit like watching a murder mystery where Poirot gathers the suspects, then it ends.

At 200k I’d be thinking pump as well as filter, if FL1 Td4.

It’s very common for a newbie to ask a technical question with long descriptions, but leave out whether it’s petrol or diesel, let alone engine type. Even odder is bothering to fill in the profile page while leaving those details out of the question. I’m sure we’ll find out... Anyway, over to...

I guess it’s a Freelander from your name, so please include model and engine type etc as our mind-reading skills take a dip around xmas...

Since you’re in Scotland, the land of road salt, I’ll add to Nodge’s advice. 1. Shear off the locking screw. 2. Bang a chisel into the gap to open up the thread. 3. Undo ball joint and pop out (hammer the outer taper). 4. Use the ring end of a spanner to start undoing the TRE. 5. TRE will jam...

I seem to remember my iCarsoft does a crank signal yes/no PID. Worth looking at that while the fault is happening?

You seem to have covered most things already, so as above - codes. Possibly even a dynamic scan by someone in the passenger seat while you drive. Other possibilities: It sounds like an intermittent connection. Fuel pump relay? Crank sensor? Broken wire to fuel pressure regulator? Have a wiggle...

Worn clutch doesn’t usually make a noise, but in any case take it back to the dealer.