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And this is for the D2 -

I'm afraid that's partially true as besides the mass, you'll need to account for the vehicle's acceleration and the acceleration due to gravity on road gradients. Acceleration can be positive or negative and can really shoot up during sudden braking and steep slopes. This will give you the...

Probably you must have pressed the lock button on the keyfob by accident which activates superlocking that immobilises the internal door handles. The interior locking switch cannot unlock supelocking which is why you had to use the keyfob to release the locks.

+1 and you might also want to consider the Neilsen CT1949 which has a full set of cups and adapters.

I think for the A-post finisher, you'll need to source the entire moulding, which comes with the rubber installed. For the windscreen bottom seal attached to the intake plenum, the part no. should be JAE100120.

I don't have an auto but I suggest that you scan the EAT for trouble codes. I also remember seeing a stall test in the RAVE section for the auto box which you can carry out to eliminate issues with the torque converter.

Mine does not even come close to the T-Max but it does the job on our 3 cars and still going strong after 5 years of regular use. Anything under 40 PSI it does with ease and it's so compact that it can be concealed in a lady's handbag :) https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RAC610

^ This and you can use a special epoxy as a substitute for solder. It does not require heat unless you want it to cure faster, in which case you can use a heat gun. Here's a link -

The likelihood is that the original wiring was cut a few inches away from the SLABS connector and the extended lead soldered in. Even if you need extended ABS sensor leads, you can buy these with the female connector that will just plug in to the harness, without the need to sever any wiring. If...

The chances are you will find the sensor lead soldered directly on the SLABS connector, right behind the glove box.

...which is why it is not covered by the workshop manual :)

Wish it was mine but I'm afraid that's image I found online. Have to say, mine is well kept but the cabin in that one looks pristine, including the original audio system. As for that lever, it's definitely the CDL but I'm not sure if it's a factory fit. The vehicle in the image is probably a V8...

I think that is a blank for the hook on the central console.

Both items are an easy fix and can be purchased online. Unfortunately the foam, which is the soundproofing barrier, cannot be bought separately from LR shops so you will need to improvise there - just search for fireproof acoustic foam.

^ This + those parts are easily replaceable with little money. Noticing how moisture on the bonnet dries quicker in the area directly on top of the engine, I'm inclined to say that the cover provides protection to the paint by containing engine heat, especially when there's no airflow over the...

I was going to suggest that you might have flipped the master cylinder seals when winding the pistons but then you mention that you had replaced the master cylinder after you replaced the pads. If yours is a TD5, you might need to finish the job with an ABS bleed and a power bleed once you open...

When I had an oil leak at the wheel hub on the rear axle, I too was in a bit of a dilemma on how to check the breather pipe without disconnecting it from the axle. The quickest way which worked for me was to blow air into the diff from the filler hole until I got a free flow of air through the...

I think at this rate, the only means of transport that the common man would be able to afford is a pedal bike :)

.....maybe he did set it on fire after all :)

This is one topic where opinions are divided, no matter how many times it comes up for discussion, with the most recent thread being this one - https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/egr-what-is-the-point.372960/#post-5207914 I personally do not see the point in deleting the EGR but others...