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Nor me… @Hippo ?

I sometimes find this… struggle for hours getting something to go back, then give up for the day. Try again a day after, and all slots into place! I put it down to my own fatigue and self-annoyance sometimes. Glad it’s sorted 👍

‘Most’ Haldex units won’t be serviced, as LR never showed it as a requirement. You can do it yourself relatively easily, with the OE parts here https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/product-category/service-kit/ A timing belt and water pump etc., probably £500 at a good Indy. So you could have a...

2nd hand dealer warranties are generally not that great to start with, with many caveats and exclusions and a very limited period. Especially on a 10 year old car. Private sales are much cheaper, and gems can be found… look into taking your own warranty out, if that’s what you want. The money...

It shouldn’t have needed a new Haldex in the first place, not at 40k miles. I noticed on the invoice it said ‘refit new Haldex and refill with oil’… now that could just be missing detail and it is referring to the diff rather than the Haldex, but the Haldex takes a particular fluid only, and it...

It would ‘explain’ and command a premium, certainly. In theory, a vehicle going to the main dealer will get genuine parts, fitted correctly, on time, and will receive updates etc. Importantly, it will also get the correct fluids used. Main dealer servicing is more expensive, and so a car can...

@kernowsvenski has changed the radio in the F1. He might be able to steer you on cables/adaptors.

Hard to tell from 1 pic, but it looks normal in terms of surface rust. As WL says, new sub frames can be readily obtained, and 2nd hand ones are available if needed. I’d still question why you are being asked to pay top dollar for something of that spec and that only has 30% main dealer...

Wet and dry. Work up to about 2000 grit. Then clear coat.

Well you can have a normal pic, or a photo-bombed one…

All done and home - will get a pic but it’s wet outside and I’m hungry. Priorities and all that… 😁

Possibly. If nothing obvious, then I’d start removing the trims and look for tell-tale (whilst it’s still wet). Assume you have nothing bolted to the rear around the roof/door (aerials/lights or similar).

This. Or drill your new hole in a scrap piece, clamp that over your original, where you want it to be, then run the drill through the scrap piece into your original. The scrap will keep the drill true.

Just started to watch this - really good content! Worth a watch. Post in thread 'What utube videos has everyone been watching' https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/what-utube-videos-has-everyone-been-watching.358825/post-5763068

Is your rear window closing fully/correctly when the rear door is closed (I.e. lifting up correctly when the door has shut)?

Nice. I go for a more ‘all terrain’ tyre as I do a bit of farm work too. I run the GO15’s on the F1, so thought I’d try something different on the F2 and ordered Wildpeaks.

I’ve got the F2 booked today for 4 new tyres, and a full alignment also. ‘‘Tis the day for spending money it seems!

Good that you got it solved, and also that you shared the outcome - this may well help others. I’d certainly be going back to the original garage to take the matter up…

Certainly worth a shot, see if it frees it up. Meths works well on removing the stickiness of old school plain mastic (such as found round windows), but reckon you need more chemicals for the adhesive side.

No experience myself, but a friend was recently doing some work on some old machinery that had a LOT of old grime on it, including what looked like old glue and silicone. He used this stuff, along with a plastic scraper, and swore by it… https://shop.ct1.com/gb/multisolve-500ml