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I just did the same job yesterday. So far I have the subframe off, drive shafts out, exhaust off and the IRD is out. I didn't need to split the bottom ball joints. I removed the two bolts holding the hub to the strut and this gives enough movement to pull the drive shafts out. Then I removed...

Hi I'm trying to improve the diagnostic protocol for the EDC 1.3.1 ECUs, used in Freelander 1 L-series diesels. I have gotten to the point that really I need access to a vehicle with a running engine. Is anyone able to help out? thanks, Philip

I believe that the crank sensor arrangement is the same on all K-Series, except for the Rover 75. There is tooth pattern in the back of the flywheel (opposite side to the clutch plate), except for the Rover 75 where the teeth are cut into the Dual Mass Flywheel, or the side of the torque...

It took me a lot longer than it should have, but, MS43 is now supported. This ECU does have basic OBD2 support, but, connecting to it using the proprietary Landrover protocol (which pscan now has) reads significantly more data.

I mean the front left loop that's bolted to the chassis leg.

My wife's old Freelander hit a Prius that pulled out in front of her. The initial point of impact was that towing eye. It utterly destroyed the front of the Prius. The Freelander would have survived if the impact hadn't triggered the airbags resulting in an cat B assessment from the insurance...

The front towing eye bolts on. Make a bracket that bolts on instead of the front towing eye that takes a 50mm ball?

They have different firmware or maps. It's best to use a TD4 ECU for a TD4 gearbox. There are far more TD4 ECUs around than V6 ones. You can tell by decoding the VIN number on the ECU (paper sticker in your photo starting SALLNABE).

Ron is a top bloke. Read his story here Edit. I can't link to him because this forum won't allow me to link to autosxxxxe You have to google for this phrase "Tales of a new business, trials and endless uphill battles by Jikovron" Edit2: He has a website of his own...

Fitted to the block. The idea is that the disc on the end of the fake crank is a near interference fit in the bell housing. I can now make an adapter plate from 6mm steel plate and the fake crank forces the centre line of the gearbox to line up with the centre line of the engine:-

machining a fake K series crankshaft

Jatco bellhousing on the milling machine:-

V6 Torque Converter with 1.8 trigger wheel:-

This week I spent a day with Ron at Reeds' Retro Motorworks in Whatstandwell. 1st job he cut the K series trigger wheel off of an old Rover 75 dual mass flywheel:- Apparently it was quite hard to do because the hardness of the metal varied because it had been welded in places and also due to...

no I think there's only 21

There are 21 bolts. 20 are obvious, the 21st is on the other side of the join:-

I'm struggling to split the bellhousing from the case. The instructions say to remove 22 bolts but I can only find 20. It seems very firmly stuck down as well. Am I supposed to do anything else other than remove those 20 and split it?

Can anyone recommend where to buy a heavy duty reverse band please?

My Jatco is taken from an earlyish (I think 2003) low mileage V6 that died due to head gasket failure. From memory the seller told me 30,000 miles. The bodyshell was the least rusty one that I've ever seen so I think it was the truth.

I have to split my V6 Jatco gearbox so that I can get the casing milled to fit my project. Whilst the gearbox is apart should I be changing this reverse band as a precaution? Any other parts that should be changed whilst I'm in there? Is there a gasket between the halves of the gearbox? thanks