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Apparently from the post above. Solved my G4 as well. Bit early to say on the Sport !!

Just a note on the subject of the modified brake switch which might help others. Bought one with the lead to fit to my TD4 Sport. It has had a very occasional TC and HDC light come on when braking despite cleaning old type switch. Before dangling under dashboard I tested the new one with an...

If it is the one behind the thermostat, pretty sure that is in the block. Core plugs usually are !

Can't picture where that is ! Have just stripped a failed TD4 engine so can help with what comes off. The timing chain cover with the removable hex plugs in doesn't have water behind it. Give me a clue where to look and I will check out my, now, box of bits !!

Has to be 100% square on. When I had a problem in the past I measure distance between engine plate and bellhousing, so the gap. It needs to be same all the way around then should push in. Not too much force and don't put strain on the input shaft of gearbox.

How did you centre the friction plate when you fitted the clutch?

Could be the 'O' ring on the coolant rail or the thermostat housing itself. O ring is impossible to change without either removing the thermostat housing or the coolant rail from the engine.

Sounds positive. Wondered if the 'water injection' had kicked in on the way home !! Good to see you both. Good luck with the rear suspension on KV's buggy.

Fluid in bellhousing on a 1.8 sounds like front input shaft oil seal ??

Countersunk the hole on mine and fitted a countersunk screw.

Seeing as the engine is scrap. Whip the sump off, jam the crank with a block of wood and use a long breaker bar to unscrew it.

Haven't finished the fit and test yet

Looking to improve the VCU bearing life, I have measured and purchased some oil seals to press in after the bearing. Then can pack grease in and the seal can run on the prop where the useless bent washer fits. Remove the washer and keep the grease in and the dust and water out. Just an idea....

Save £60 and reuse old crank pulley then buy the clutch !?

Never seen a dizzy cam. Can the bit that turns the dizzy be swapped to the new cam?? Not sure of the answer to this.

You are welcome. Take your time, ask for advice and check everything. Part of learning process and we have all done it. Once you learn by doing you never forget. Change thread title to 'Hello' and keep going !!

This is where it went wrong. If it won't turn by hand don't use starter and certainly don't run it !! Looking at the resultant bag of broken valve, piston, liner and block I would say the timing was miles out. Lock the crank in safe spot and align the cams locking them with the correct tool...

Still working yes. Never got a response from any supplier to confirm and still doubtful of its origin !!!

I think the crank sensor teeth are different on the Rover. @pscan.eu will be able to advise as he is doing a 1.8k automatic conversion and has had to deal with such issues !!

EGR gas cooler. Fitted to TD4 automatic only. No idea why only the auto wants cooler gasses ?? Anyone?