Search results

Er no its not normally! Clutch master cylinder reservoir is normally on the bulkhead to the right (as you look at it) of the brake servo.

Assume you have done the obvious and checked the fluid level?

Assuming you re talking EGR, my 96 300 went through with a blank on fine. Down to tester I suppose, if he knows landys and the 300 then he may know its missing then its down to his jobsworth attitude. IIRC 94/95 300s didn't have them as standard, 96 to 98 did.

Do you mean the coolant pipe clips at the bottom?

No there are a few variants which have different diameter pistons if I remember correctly. Best bet is to measure piston diameter and rebuild as above ^^^

Looking at the smooth fracture surface it looks like it has been a cracked there for a while, probably as a result of fretting at the keyway. Looks like the bits in the first post are not in the correct sequence (bottom and right bits should be swapped)?

Don't bother trying to second guess what fault is coming up next. You never know but the FPR and loom may have been replaced recently so you would just be wasting money and potentially causing new issues if you fiddle around with things. Just do the regular service items listed above and drive it!

If it snapped a rocker and has just been 'reconditioned' it sounds like the cam timing is out. I would also check the pushrod as that could be bent too.

Just remember that a bent rod isn't as strong as a straight one so may get worse over time. Have you also checked the tracking as bending the rod will cause it to toe out but probably not enough for you to notice?

Recover? Pictures?

In your case the chamfer on the washer is there so the the weld on the arm has somewhere to go and allows the washer to sit flat. If you ever have one to fit under a bolt head then the chamfer normally faces the bolt head so that the radius between the head and the shank of the bolt sits in it

Let me simplify the post for you. Op fitted a new wireless, it was a bit too big but fitted with a push! :D

Not me!:D

Assuming its bent down rather than bent back could be a sign that one of the front wheels got badly curbed. If it is also bent backwards then it may have hit something when off roading

Track rod shouldn't touch the guard so its probably bent. Take the guard off and give it a try to prove it

This help?

If it isn't cross drilled and is only a temporary measure while the overdrive is being repaired then you should get away without replacing it, just make sure the splines are greased when you assemble it

Like Neilly says you need to adjust the lock stops on the swivels, right swivel does left lock & vice versa. Book says you should have about 20mm between tyre and arm because tyre can flex.

You want to position the breaker as close to the battery +ve terminal as you can that way you have the best protection if the main cable from the battery were to get chafed on the chassis. Any length of cable between the battery terminal and the breaker isn't ptotected if it were to get chafed

8 x 150 = 1200W (excluding normal vehicle lights). Just that load itself equates to 85A :eek: so you would have been draining the battery when they were on as the 65A alternator wouldn't be able to keep up with the load.