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Oi, Excuse me young man!

You could just measure the recess the clip has to go in, that will confirm the required diameter

Glad that was of some assistance, I think the Def and Disco turbos are basically the same except for the rotational angle that the housing is fitted to the body at. Cost effective for the manufacturer to use what they have rather than redesigning the whole thing just to fit a different model...

Assume this is too small?

Yea I was wondering too but thought I would chip in anyway:rolleyes:. I've got a plain blank fitted, the FIP still has the potentiometer on it, the valve is on the bulkhead and ECU under the cubby box.:cool:

Plenty of mentions of the EGR in that manual (plus pictures). if you use the on-line VIN decoder you will find that the engine type (with or without EGR) is actually specified by one of the letters (I also think 23L prefix engines are EGR and 16L not IIRC). Mine is a 96 300 (UK model. with 23L...

Its mostly to do with heater output rather than air flow. If the heater can only put out a set amount of heat (because bit is clogged etc) and your increase the air flow all you will get is more air (at a lower temperature) rather than hotter air

A rather miserable 180,000 miles here (96 Def 90) but my clay shooting club has a 96 Disco with 235,000 and that hasn't been on the road for about 7 years.

Yea, realise its after the event, was more of a reminder that you may still want to do it after you have given the engine a once over and sorted any pushrods or the timing.

When you have the belt or timing dismantled you should turn the engine over by hand (2 revolutions) once you reassemble it. That will let you feel any obstructions like valves hitting pistons before you hit the starter,

Nope, this is a foglight one

Think headlight aim stickers normally have a headlight symbol like this

Good point about your good pointo_O

1.68 on mine, seems to be a fair spread of figures getting quoted, mine looks ready to 'fall off':rolleyes:

Glad you found it in the end, almost had me confused for a second or two! What colour is the clutch fluid, should be clear(ish), if it is black that is a good sign that it hasn't been changed for a while or that the seals are breaking up.

If that is the case then probably worth removing it so he tester has to default to the 3.0 limit, might save a bit of hassle ilater?

That doesn't mean that it has to be the ignition switch, if the relay coil fails (or the wiring to it) you won't get a click either. Quick check with a meter on the switch will let you know which way to look

Proud to say its NOT mine, just one I googled!:p:D

Should just be a normal pdf

You got the silver cap in the middle of the piccy (could also be white plastic)?