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The v8 is a chain, make sure you give it a good road test even if you have to put petrol in it, you dunt want one with gearbox problems or overheating. Have a good look around the engine and see if its been taken apart recently . Lift the rear carpet and make sure the floor is ok, they die...

Taking the thermostat out is a classic when the head gasket is gone, as the guy said start there and get it sniffed. Have a close look and see if the head has been off already recently, could be the bastid changed the gasket and its gone again, crack in head or warped to fook. Water wont...

Doubt you could buy incorrect fluid these days, but it does have a sell by date since its hygoscopic and absorbs moisture, so best to chuck it away after a while once its opened.

Presumably you never had this problem before and you let all the brake fluid run out when changing the caliper, air in the system? Bleed it starting from the n/s rear, get somebody to pump the pedal half a doz times then hold it down firmly and tell you, you open the bleeder and watch the...

Welcome to the site mucker, take yur time out there they get stuck quite easily so go with that in mind. Probably best to go with somebody who knows a bit so you dont get hurt aswel. Last time I was out mine went right over on two wheels and nearly rolled, the bad bit was the axe in the door...

Only on trucks, years of romping things up gives you that ability to tell I guess just like yourself. Most stuff gets fooked up with an air gun. Even with a torque wrench some of drivers in the daily checks and mechanics unfortunatly like to give em that little bit more after the click or hear...

Copaslip tends to dry out and gives you the same effect as painting a hub , it flakes off leaving a loose wheel, same with studs if it gets onto the taper or locating stub then the nuts can come loose. Its great for stuff but I dont use it for that, a little light oil making sure the nuts run...

Used to take truck drums off by that method, a small cut then pound the bastid until it cracked, you could bash them all day and never get em off and still have to fit a new drum at the end of it. Just watch yur eyes tho.

Now now, I think the point was quenching it after you roastid it fat face, you will have the tracks falling out or even the studs, two different metals react at different rates, thats why we heat em up and cool em down like that to upset the molocules and they come loose, ring gears on flywheels...

Oh yah maniac, think of what that will do to the bearing tracks, thats why you never heat em, aint good for the studs either. Just knock the fokers off yah woose.

Get the disc on two blocks so the hub is above the ground, put a wooden block on the hub and bash it out with a hammer, or a bigger hammer. Dont hit the hub without a block on it you will destroy it.

I hope to fook somebody dunt read this the wrong way or I'm dead.:eek::eek:

When you fit pistons or rings you always take a ring off and push it down the bore with the piston, check the gap in the ring where the two ends meet. There is a measurement for that gap and you then file the ends of the rings to that gap. If they are too tight then they dont sit properly...

Its only a few gaskets a set of rings and your time, but remember that the rings are hard as fook and most of the wear is in the bores and the pistons, and that is why there is always a ridge at the top of the bore. New rings will be a bit better springy wise but they wont compensate for the...

Sometimes even when its staring them in the face they cant face up to revisit something that they think is sortid,"denial". You need to go to them and tell em look, its a trillion times worse since you messed about with my injectors, are you gona put another set of either new or reconditioned...

Probably cost you that already for checking things that are ok, I hope you asked them if they tried another set of injectors just in case the ones they sortid aint, and if they are doing the job why the fook did they give you it back like that, dunt they road test before and after.

I think you should boot the specialist up the hole and stop wasting yur time and go and get a set of injectors, or find another specialist that knows what he is doing.

The derv ones aint as bad as the petrol but I'd rather have a camel than a freelander from what I have read on here. Do yourself a favour and do a search on freelanders on here, or the buzzards are gona get yur eyes as you lay in the desert stranded as the bastid falls to bits on you.

Try earthing the temp first if it dunt go up then that would lead me to think a fault in the dash circuit, you have a haynes manual so see if it shares an earth. I have changed the regulator on many occasions in alternators, you need to see if you can get one first and compare it with a recon...

And its worse now!!