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That type is what I seem to have. I'm guessing, from the 'conversion' adds I've seen, that you can purchase a tapered race that fits into the hub and tapered bearings. I think I just need new bearings but won't know the full story until I get the hub off, by which time I'm committed and won't...

Sorry to start a new thread but the search function doesn't seem to be working... I've found myself needing to replace the front wheel bearings on my V reg Defender TD5. BUT I can't seem to find a set that looks the same as the cone shaped ones in the hub ( which I've had to temporarily pack...

Hmmmm... tools :-) I only needed the #1 tool in the end. Easy peasy lemon squeezy. Unfortunately only one curse when I thumped my head on the chassis crawling out but otherwise a good job jobbed. Thanks for the assist guys :-)

Bushes look good atm. No clonks or wiggle. Only doing the BJ as the boot is split. Obvs I'll give em a wiggle, but the BJ is needed for the next MOT. One thing at a time :-)

Wheels will be on the ground, chocked at the front. I shall be laying in mud, as I don't have any hard standing, and cursing like an east end barrow boy ( as my grandmother used to say ) :-)

If I don't skin a knuckle or two I'll be disappointed ;-)

Yeah. 'Looks' simple lol Steering ball joints come apart with just a smack with a lump hammer with another on the other side but as this is a bigger BJ I'd thought I didn't want to get into it without checking others' experience first. Doubt I'll do any more than jack the body up from the tow...

I know there are threads for this but I'm reasonable confident I can handle most of it. I've bought the kit so won't need to press in a new ball joint, and I'm sure I'll be able to drift/cut the old bolts out. My only concern is that I don't have a splitter. Will one be neccesary, or will the...

Well, I'm a rank amateur and I managed to do the whole thing around 9 hours, with lots of warming of toes and checking manuals, back and forth looking for tools in their various hiding places etc Now to replace the handbrake cable that failed when I parked up to do the work. Never a dull moment...

Of course, how foolish of me lol I'd planned to do the cable tie thing, but I'm getting nervous now I'm at the open heart surgery stage... Everything disconnected, Rocker cover ( I know, I know, old habbits etc etc ) off, and E14 on breaker bar in hand. Thanks for your help fella :-)

A further question... Having disconnected everything and got ready to release the head bolts I'm concerned that the timing chain isn't supported in any way. Is it possible that the chain can drop and slip off the bottom sprocket ? Also, what is the 'Underbelly Panel' of which the manual speaks...

I have my suspicions that the engineering firm I had it done at last time used plastic dowels as mentioned in the workshop manual. It's the only reason I can think of for it going again after only 2 years.

Sweet. Only £15 for the two on Paddocks. Thanks again :-) I'll be back I'm sure :-)

Do you have time to elucidate upon "you need a timing pin for crank pin crank before removing head ,and a suitable size drill bit will do for cam" pls ? Are these two seperate things ? and if so what does the first bit mean ? I think I know what you mean but it's better to be certain ime. Sorry...

Ok, so the current HG is a three hole, which I'm assuming is the thickest from what I've read. Final question for now. Are there any tricks or tips or any tools that aren't in a standard toobox/socket set ( other that the hex socket ) that I will need. I've done OHC engines before, and a number...

Fair enough :-) Is there a way of doing this without expensive special tools ?

What is the purpose of this check, and why might it effect the problems I have had ?

Thanks chap :-)

So, will I need to strip it before ordering a new HG to find out how many holes there are ? I had it done at a local engineering works so I'm not sure if they used steel dowels or not and didn't get a great deal of information about the standard of parts they used.