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....ages, the sensors would be within tolerance. When I turn to the right, the voltage from the sensor is weaker on the O/S/F hub and out of tolerance therefore causing the problem. I'll work on that.

Hi, Thanks for the inputs - I learn all the time .Early on in the fault finding, I checked tyre pressures & even swapped the two front wheels over with each other. I also checked the level of the diff oil. I'm not aware of the ECU being re-mapped. The situation is that if I drove 100miles miles...

Hi Stan, If you read my 1st post again, you will see that I have had the tracking checked. Tracking & camber are two different things.

I don't know the brand of ball joints. I bought them off two different suppliers on eBay. They have been MOT tested. There was no comment, so I presume they are OK. I don't know anything about camber settings. Do you think that it's possible that I could have altered them due to fitting new parts?

Hi. Sorry!, I should have said N/S/F hub.

Hi Sierra, Both the original sensors were within the specified resistance range,but I swapped them for the new ones that came with the hubs. the new ones are within range too. I'm positive that it's the O/S/F hub because I've had smoke coming off it ! Thanks for your input.

Hi Si, Thanks for your input. I'll have to get further advice on that. [lucky tr2 owners don't have silly problems like mine]

Thanks James, I was careful to get the sensors tight. I just don't understand how I can be doing 30mph with my foot off the accelerator that it stops the fault at known road problems. If I leave my foot on the gas I get TC kicking-in.

Hi Lads, My front left TC always aggressively kicks-in when turning right & also when I hit a pot hole on a straight road. This all started after I replaced all the ball joints at the front end. I tried to identify the fault by checking: resistance of the sensors, tracking, substituting the ABS...

Hi, On Thursday, I made a bridge between terminals 30 & 87. No start, so I checked continuity at the block terminal. That was OK. I then jacked the van up & saw that the wire on the solenoid spade wasn't pushed fully home. Checked for continuity and it was OK, so I cleaned the spade & pushed the...

Hi Col, Thanks for your input. I disconnected the battery and charged it. Hi Sierafery, I can't return to the problem today, but will follow what you say in the next day or so. I know that I shouldn't get 12.5v from the BCU , but that's what I'm getting. Could be that the switch in the BCU is...

Hi, Thanks for your advice & the diagram. I've spent more time on the problem today and I think that I must have 'fried' the BCU or something, when I put battery charger clips on the wrong way round. I presume that's why the alarm/horn sounded. I was curious if other ccts were OK and removed...

Hi, Thanks for your input. There is 12.5v at FL12 terminal. The fuse passed the continuity test. No continuity between the other FL terminal & the relay terminals. Tried removing the fuse box to check the wiring, but the aged wiring underneath, was keeping it in place & I didn't want to create...

After a long job replacing steering ball joints, I put the battery on charge and the horn/alarm sounded immediately. I had put the charger clips on the wrong terminals! Everything works/lights-up, but the starter won't turn. All the fuses/fuseable links are OK. I've had the ECU checked by an...