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😂 😂 I think new original owner did.I'm the second & have done about 16,000 in just under 3yrs. Wire brushed & given a coat of Vactan, I'll the spray it with Halfords truck bed spray (bloody good stuff) & hopefully refit this afternoon 🤞.I must admit the bolts, considering they've done 180,000...

I've now replaced the front (smaller) bushes on the rear r/arms with polybushes, think the old ones had seen better days ! Cobbled together a 'tool' to insert them.

Not sure if it also leaks along the seam where the blower intake/wiper motor is under the scuttle panel as they use the same seam sealer as the roof gutters which goes brittle & cracks, the air intake was where mine leaked,see pics.

Hi all, are the rear most bushes in the radius arm a different construction from the front bush ? I'm replacing mine & the front bush is the usual metalastic jobbie whilst the rear two seem to have plastic on the o/s of the bush, see pics (I've only removed the front one at the moment), Thanks...

I stand corrected, it seems the 5000 lamps were available as fog or driving 🙄.

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/hierarchy/id/14.55780.56174/brand/land-rover/ I think all the safari lamps were driving lamps as the pre facelift D2's had fogs in the lower part of the bumper. Click on the link & the accessories.

Mine had those safari 5000 lamps fitted when I got it back in 2020. One reflector had corroded & I've been looking for a replacement (reflector) ever since ! I have 'temporarily' fitted Hella lamps but they wobble going over bumps as they have no stabilising bar (which bolts to the top of the...

You need to take the whole sunroof out, clean the old sealer off the roof & sunroof (every last bit) then reseal with sikaflex & whilst you're there check & put extra sealer on those pathetic plastic bits where the drain pipes connect.

No I don't recall having any issues fitting it, just cleaned it all up, found a suitable 'installer' probably a deep socket & that was that.

When I did mine back in 21 I ordered 2 NAK ones (on SF's recommendations at the time) & thankfully the it's been fine since, done 15,000 miles since. I only replaced the one that was leaking & I've just been looking for my 'spare' to measure it for peeps but can't find it.:rolleyes:

They do a heavy duty band, not sure if that relates to the 'longer one' you fitted. Good work.

I think it's called "lack of torque wrench" or knowledge of how to use one !

Separating the IRD from the auto box is straight forward 4 bolts + oil cooler pipes. Knowing what I know now & if I'd access to a ramp I'd drop the engine & gearbox in one lump. I did borrow an engine crane but it was still a pain to do on the floor, all the best.

Have you taken the case off to check the actual micro switch is still soldered to the circuit board or the board tracks have not corroded ? One of my keys had a 'good' switch but had come adrift of the board. Do you have a spare key, if so is that OK?

Subframe & IRD have to come out. Be very careful when you remove the two rubber hoses off the aluminium pipes for the IRD oil cooler as the aluminium pipes are very thin & crush easily, all the best.

A pic of the brittle/cracked putty on mine. Water was travelling along the inner gutter & exiting where the paper towel, note LR's lump of putty at the top of the A pillar :rolleyes:. As said roof bar gaskets.

Gutters along the length of the roof, mine leaked through that gutter putty just past the rear passenger door but would travel along & enter by the 'A' pillar.

Hi, mine as I say, electrically at least, is just stuck in P1. Mechanically everything moves as it should so. The selctor cable (bottom of the) g/box is clamped in exact same place as when I disassembled it, judging by the witness/discolouration on the bit that's clamped so I don't think that is...

I've had another quick look today & with the xyz switch removed I've moved the white collar back & forth in the switch by hand but the dash display still shows 1 & the red light next to the selector lever is still showing 'D1'. Is there/are there, info or links that show you can test the xyz...

Sometimes the pistons on new calipers retract a fair way which will always need more pedal movement to push them back out before theres any braking affect, which can give the impression there's air in the system although what you described sounded like excessive pedal movement. In my motorbike...