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martyuk

martyuk

Well-Known Member in Swindon, UK
Joined
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824
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  • R
    Hello mate, do you do becm repair? Fuse 1 kept blowing , now it doesn’t but instrument cluster not working, tried another cluster but still didn’t work. Assuming something gone in becm? Many thanks Dave
    awkwardbob
    Hi Marty,

    having issues with background RF and battery drain and the near universal recommendation was to pick up one of your inline RF filters.

    Tried one of the links provided but the item is out of stock. Do you know whether there may be a supplier with items in stock ? -or do you have an idea (in these crazy times) when there may be stock available ?

    Thanks

    Bob
    T
    Hi Marty - I have stupidly locked my one (working) key inside the car - rookie error of connecting a jump starter to a completely flat battery with the key inside the car and it locked. Any options apart from hammer? Wondering if rear quarterlight would enable opening rear door and hence front (less broken glass). Or is there any other way??? Thanks, John
    Bagshot
    Hi Marty, yes another ghost locking issue here. 2001, 4.6. starting to get more frequent jumping, so could you let me know if you have any locks/ switches available. I can let you have my own lock in advance if that helps at all.
    Many Thanks
    Bagshot
    martyuk
    martyuk
    Hi there, tried to send you a PM, but it won't let me - says I can't send a PM to you. I do have a latch available for a 2001 - you can order it on my website: p38webshop.co.uk, or email me on [email protected] and we can work the details out.

    Kind Regards, Marty
    Bagshot
    Bagshot
    S
    Hi Marty
    P38 4.0 Thor 2000
    You seem to be the go to chap for P38 drivers door lock problems. I have been advised by the forum members that the micro switches are my problem(random actuation of all locks) and that you may have a recon available. Is this correct and if so can I please buy one?
    Many thanks
    Simon
    Lukas018
    Hi Marty,

    Got recommended by Mozz, my P38 drivers door/locks keep clicking all the time, guys recommended I change the microswitches, do you have any and is it worth replacing all of them in the drivers door or the whole car?

    I need a few others bits if you can drop me a message be much appreciated.

    thanks

    Lukas
    A
    Marty,

    I would like some info on the new key that arrived yesterday from Huf via Albert Farnell in Nelson Lancs.
    The fob will lock and unlock the car so has sync'd to the vehicle but the keyblade does not work in any of the locks i.e. door, ignition or glovebox which I thought would be impossible if the key was cut to my vin and correctly coded by Huf to my BECM ?
    K
    Hi,
    My RHF door latch(RHD =diesel 1997) has some issues . Can I get a refurbed one from you?
    Let me know the costs to posting to SRILANKA, please.

    thanks

    Kapila
    B
    Hi, I am having problems with my 2000 dse p38. The main went flat because I had used her for a while and fob battery died too , the centre locking did not work after changing fob battery plus got the engine disabled on the screen. Tried to put the key code but nothing happens ( no lights on dashboard flashing) . Hope you can help
    Thanks Neil
    mozz smith
    mozz smith
    hi binman , have you got anywhere with it yet ???? if your still stuck let me know , kind regards mozz
    D
    Hi Marty, hope you're well. Took my old HEVAC controller apart as parts for my new one. I wonder if you have some zebra connectors I could buy?? I found some on ebay and thought I could maybe buy half a dozen, but holy cr@p, not at those prices. I have a few mates up here with P38's so figured I could be the local go to. Cheers Doo.
    R
    Hello Marty. I have a cracked header tank on my P38 heater matrix, so it needs replacing. I saw your post from last year (about the Audi conversion).

    So, can you tell me if you still do this and if you would like to do it in the next month or so? I live in Solihull, but I am working in Reading.

    My P38 is 1999 Thor with LPG conversion and several mods, so I don't want to give up on it yet.

    Thanks, Richard.
    K
    Dear martyuk,
    Is there a way how to make the ECU free or open, so i can installed in any P38 GEMS with out synchronize with the BECM. I have heard some thing like that. I have both NANOCOM & Lynx tools. Please help
    DanClarke
    Hi Marty,
    I just replaced the RHF door latch assembly in my 2000 MY P38.
    You had expressed an interest in the old unit I have removed I think?
    I have it here boxed up in the packaging the new unit arrived in.
    Regards,

    Dan.
    MatP38
    Now I need to locate where the fault is coming from .
    Can you help me with this problem ?
    MatP38
    So I chased the problem back to the motor , took it apart and cleaned the copper connectors hooked it up to power and it to was working . So I worked back to the RH module and found the problem ( or so I thought ) I had three brunt out resistors , so I took them to be replaced , plugged the repaired module back in and zap , resistors burnt out again.
    MatP38
    HI Marty
    @Grrrrrr mentioned you may be able to help me with my problem .
    I have a 1998 4.6 p38 petrol and the RH door module resistors are burnt out . Initially the electric windows were not operating so I replaced the corroded switch pack and 3 out of four started working again, just the RH drivers side was not functioning .
    Nick O
    Hi Marty, could you tell me please if your still doing a repair service for P38 switch pack. If so could you give me a price and how to contact you. My mobile number is 07885723927 if you want to text over any details. Thank you. Nick
    E
    Hello Marty, I have a 97 P38 4.6L HSE which doesn't lock on the drivers door.
    I have done your tests and everything passed except for the CDL "sill button up" test which came back with a open circuit instead of closed. The CDL motor also came back with a 45ohm reading which is higher than your guideline of 4-20ohms.
    I would be very grateful for your help and advise to fix the issue.
    Thanks, Gary
    D
    Hi Marty, Can you figure this out?

    I checked for voltage & "all" wires reading. Thin wires giving something like 10.56v & the thick ones in the region of 9.60v give or take.

    I really don't get why the motor wont work!? I mean, surely that's enough for it to go, even a little bit slower? After all, resistors drop the voltage for blower motors...

    Am I missing something?

    Thanks in advance.

    Andi
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