P38A Cut out problem

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cornishboater

cornishboater

Well-Known Member
Posts
702
Location
Poole, Dorset
I am not sure if anyone can point me in the right direction but I will ask. I have a 98 4.6HSE which has a random issue. Sometimes when starting it dies immediately or chugs a little and then runs fine (hot or cold) most times it starts and runs flawlessly. It also randomly stutters as if it is out of fuel when driving (always when slowly moving) It has also cut out when stopped in traffic. It always restarts when giving a bit of gas and most of the time runs beautifully. I thought that it may have been the fuel pump at first but it does it on LPG also. Any ideas as to what may cause this? Could it be a dirty MAF? Many thanks in advance for any help
 
Check crank sensor & connector. It's down the left passenger side of the engine, & a common location for oil or moisture to get in.

When it dies, do other electrics cut out as well ? I had an issue with the main battery connection on a fusebox, and had to open it up to re-solder.
 
cornishboater said:
I am not sure if anyone can point me in the right direction but I will ask. I have a 98 4.6HSE which has a random issue. Sometimes when starting it dies immediately or chugs a little and then runs fine (hot or cold) most times it starts and runs flawlessly. It also randomly stutters as if it is out of fuel when driving (always when slowly moving) It has also cut out when stopped in traffic. It always restarts when giving a bit of gas and most of the time runs beautifully. I thought that it may have been the fuel pump at first but it does it on LPG also. Any ideas as to what may cause this? Could it be a dirty MAF? Many thanks in advance for any help
Click to expand...

Hmmm, if it only did it hot I would suspect a crank or cam sensor starting to go. It may still be.

How old are the coil packs and HT leads?
 
pwood999 said:
Check crank sensor & connector. It's down the left passenger side of the engine, & a common location for oil or moisture to get in.

When it dies, do other electrics cut out as well ? I had an issue with the main battery connection on a fusebox, and had to open it up to re-solder.
Click to expand...
All other electrics are ok as far as I can see
 
Grrrrrr said:
Hmmm, if it only did it hot I would suspect a crank or cam sensor starting to go. It may still be.

How old are the coil packs and HT leads?
Click to expand...
HT leads/plugs are 2 years, coil packs as far as I know are AD 1997 :) I have had the old girl since 2010 and I haven't changed them prior to that my brother had it for 4 or 5 years and he certainly didn't change them.
It does it either hot or cold, usually I open the door and just start the car without touching the gas pedal and off it goes but occasionally it chugs and stops as if it needed choke, if I pop my foot lightly on the gas pedal it then starts with no problems. The concern is the random engine dying issue, it doesn't actually cut out just goes as if having kangaroo fuel, a couple of seconds and off it goes again!! I remember years ago when my MAF failed it was similar but it became terminal fairly quickly, this issue has been going on for quite some time.
 
it happens when running on lpg? so it can't be the fuel pump or rail pressure.
you can unplug the maf and drive without it, but it doesnt sound like a maf problem
also unlikely to be the idle air bypass valve
i think you need to see the injector timings, can't remember if nanocom does this but i think so
 
One thing to add is that it only (so far) does it at slow speeds, no misfires or hesitation when going faster, it does hesitate a little if booting it but then it always has so I usually put it in sport mode and it boots down fine.
 
I think the MAF is the culprit, when going slow on a roundabout or junction the rpm is in the region of 700ish the MAF reading goes up and down from 25kg and when the car starts to “hunt” it goes down as far as 0 for a second or so. As soon as it jumps to 15 - 25 it takes off again. I remember the last time it went (15 years ago) the car died completely at roundabouts and junctions unless I used the two foot technique to brake and keep the revs up, seems as if this could be the same or similar issue. I have ordered one from Rimmers in case, at least it would remove one thing from the equation.
I will give an update as soon as the new MAF is installed, hopefully all of the issues will disappear including the hesitation when accelerating which after looking at the various symptoms this is one of them, I thought it was just the plugs and leads, we will see :)
I was going to try and clean the sensor but for the sake of £50 - £60 Akkers I thought what the heck, just a mere drop in the ocean to what I have put into the darn thing over the years!!!!
 
cornishboater said:
I think the MAF is the culprit, when going slow on a roundabout or junction the rpm is in the region of 700ish the MAF reading goes up and down from 25kg and when the car starts to “hunt” it goes down as far as 0 for a second or so. As soon as it jumps to 15 - 25 it takes off again. I remember the last time it went (15 years ago) the car died completely at roundabouts and junctions unless I used the two foot technique to brake and keep the revs up, seems as if this could be the same or similar issue. I have ordered one from Rimmers in case, at least it would remove one thing from the equation.
I will give an update as soon as the new MAF is installed, hopefully all of the issues will disappear including the hesitation when accelerating which after looking at the various symptoms this is one of them, I thought it was just the plugs and leads, we will see :)
I was going to try and clean the sensor but for the sake of £50 - £60 Akkers I thought what the heck, just a mere drop in the ocean to what I have put into the darn thing over the years!!!!
Click to expand...

Will it run on default values if you just unplug the MAF?
 
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