Steve's Land Raft

On mine it's the (P) ... I have see the '(!) Brake' on others but that is nominaly for the fluid level ...

Thanks again I'll check on the (P) bulb first. I am sure I changed all the dash bulbs when I had it in bits doing the Bulkhead, Not every holder had a Bulb as I remember. The (!) Brake light is for low level on mine and does work.

Hmmm.. Switch arrived and fitted, took the warning light cluster out and checked the circuits, the lamp is working. Ultimately there is no power feed to the lamp, all fuses OK , so where to look next ??????

Dauphproto said:

Hmmm.. Switch arrived and fitted, took the warning light cluster out and checked the circuits, the lamp is working. Ultimately there is no power feed to the lamp, all fuses OK , so where to look next ??????

Click to expand...

Find the colour of the wire that comes off the bulb and work towards the switch checking for power. Not many joins to check. I normally check the main bulkhead connections & then by gearbox.

Does your diff lock light work?
Could you use the power etc to prove cable is connected & switch work?
Good luck

Hicap phill said:

Find the colour of the wire that comes off the bulb and work towards the switch checking for power. Not many joins to check. I normally check the main bulkhead connections & then by gearbox.

Does your diff lock light work?
Could you use the power etc to prove cable is connected & switch work?
Good luck

Click to expand...

That will be the next step, check continuity from lamp output to switch, yes Diff lock lamp works. There doesn't seem to be any power to the lamp, so I'll need to take the fusebox off to check if anything is disconnected there.
All good fun.....

I've managed to hurt my Knee pretty good, this has brought progress on all fronts down to a crawl, however I have managed to get the brackets for changing the transfer box finished.
I'll have to do this on the floor, but it is a nice smooth, dry concrete floor, so I'll jack up the rear and put it on stands and use the trolley jack for the heavy lifting.
The jig is made in 2 parts



This plate fits to the Trolley jack



and it's pinned through the saddle, so it can't fall off
This will be for fitting the new case as it has a big sump, and is effectively flat bottomed.
The second part is the pie wedge



copied from the original tooling it attaches to the original T/case and bolts to the flat plate, which hopefully saves my Digits...
I didn't seal the end cover on the rebuilt T/case, so I can remove it and the input gear making it easier to get it fitted and on the dowels first then fit the gear and seal it up.
If there's anything wrong with this method please shout up, I have never done this before and welcome any advice you may have..
More soon when I can walk properly again..

Finally got everything together for swapping the Transfer box. Just need to wait on my knee getting better, so far, not so good. As mine was a working Landy all the wheelarches are damaged somewhere or other, now it's in a more genteel semi retirement I wanted to tidy things up a bit. After much searching I have decided to go with Britpart's +30mm arches Which will let me run 30mm spacers, at present using 265's on a 7"ET0 wheel fills the standard arch.
I have managed to do the rears, which was very straightforward, being a straight swap for the originals. Have to say I'm impresed with the fit and finish, but my Knee was protesting, so the fronts will have to wait a few days, as they are a little more involved.
The pic shows the standard fronts with the new rears, quite subtle I thought.



More soon, I hope....