LT230 gaskets

Good afternoon all.

I have been looking online at what's best to seal a transfer box and it seems a bit grey. Some suggest using 'paper' gaskets, some suggest paper gaskets and silicone, others just say silicone...

I have two different LT230s, one I'm overhauling and one temporary. Both have a black silicone gasket and no paper gaskets.

What does everyone suggest, and will the below gasket sealant be ok?

Thank you all

Two each their own, but I still like old method of paper gasket smeared with grease. Next time something gets opened up someone will not be struggling to clean off silicone like I recently did with 230 I sorted last year.
If you do use silicone do not go daft with the amount used, stuff squeezed on the outside is messy but on the inside could get into oilways.

I used paper gaskets and Hylomar Blue when I did mine along with a full fastener set from Ashcroft.

I always use Blue Hylomar in addition to any gasket I fit.

Anaconda said:

I always use Blue Hylomar in addition to any gasket I fit.

Click to expand...

The classic mistake there Mr @Anaconda

It's 'Hylomar Blue' or to be precise, Hylomar Universal Blue ....

miktdish said:

The classic mistake there Mr @Anaconda

It's 'Hylomar Blue' or to be precise, Hylomar Universal Blue ....

Hylomar® Universal Blue - Hylomar

Universal Blue

hylomar.com

Click to expand...

One thing to beware of is that the distance between the Bearings on the input gear shaft and the Lower differential shaft is absolutely critical and is set at the factory, or by the last person who rebuilt it, always assuming the knew what they were doing .
If your box has no gaskets and you fit them you will add 15 thou of clearance to the input and 30 thou to the output (2 gaskets)
This will let everything wallop about inside, which will do it no favours at all. You would need to get a hold of shims from the likes of Ashcroft's and add the amount same as the gaskets. If you decide to remove the gaskets and use sealer you need to remove the same thickness of shimming or you will put way too much preload on the bearings toasting them in short order. Best bet is to keep it as it was and hope that the last person did it right. I've just done mine converting from gaskets to sealer only and it gets a wee bit involved, as measuring and checking will get you to within a couple of thou of the right spot, the only way to really get it right is to know how it should feel when it is right. New bearings should have a couple of thou preload (tight) Re-used bearings should be on Zero preload and zero clearance. As long as you understand what is going on and how it works you should not come to grieff.