Cold lower hose

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Thanks Kermit. Why had I not thought of that! I am gonna stick with the thermostat as is, as thats how the original engineers designed the cooling system. I live in a frost pocket too, so I do need the heat to defrost the cab. Having replaced the head gasket 2 years ago, the engine block was thoroughly cleaned and tested along with the head. Since then I flushed the system last autumn, so I am finally getting to the conclusion this is sensor related. I have just bought 2 x NOS sensor from PB Blanchards, so I'll fit that and remove the recent britpart. Will update when I get to the issue. Thanks again for spending the time thinking and then posting. Its really helpful as a stumped long term DIY mechanic.
 
As above @kermit_rr re thermostat.
I often say for older vehicles you can not beat having an aftermarket capillary type temperature gauge, keep original for looks and fit it somewhere else. They read in numbers/degrees and no electrics to bother with other than light. Hope you pass on what you learn here on the forum, we need more members doing that. Cheers.
 
Just an intermediate update. The infrared thermometer arrived this afternoon. Cylinder head 79 degrees at the back 78 degrees at the front, top of rad 68 degrees. Fitted new Britpart temp sender - this sent the dashboard temp gauge just below the red. NOS Smiths temp dated 1977 sender fitted - this sent the dashboard temp gauge to above N, but well below the red. Intermoter NOS dated 1980 exactly the same as the NOS Smiths. To complete the picture, I have just ordered a brand new Smiths. Sadly, I am no electriciation as I'd likde to check the OMpS on each. However, I am pleased with the infrared thermometer results - but if I can I'd like to get the dashboard gauge bang on N as it had previously been. What I did note is the Britpart is short and dumpy and clearlt fits closer into the cylinder head, whereas the Smiths and Intermoter are both longer, which I feel must sit further into the water jacket/channel. When I fit the new Smiths, I will report back. At least I have a few spares to now carry.
 
Yes. Having bought NOS stabiliser and then a new one (neither worked), I was recommended on another thread to purchase a modern equivalent from ebay. For the first time in years I had an accurate fuel gauge, yet the temperature was in near the red with the Britpart equivalent. I have a Smiths and Lucas on order. I am running the 1977 NOS Smiths temp sender at the moment. Needle sits above the N, so you can clearly see the N, yet it does not stray anywhere near the red. I will play around with the new Lucas and Smiths and report back. Previously, the needle sat bang on the N. Today, I had the bike carrier on and after every large hill I was dashing out with the infrared temp reader. CH constantly at 79 to 81 degrees. Top of Rad 70 degrees, bottom of rad 40 to 42. Covered only 8 miles - yet it was pretty consistent, so I am now hugely confident this is just down to the electrical resistance in each manufactures temp senders. Also, each is a slightly different shape, with the Britpart having a stubby nose when compared to the Smiths and Intermotor. Will report back in case I get a different result with the modern Lucas or Smiths. Once again, thank you. This long running saga is nearly over. Just the front swivels to go this winter....
 
So, a new Lucas temperature sender arrived today. Fitted. After several miles, the dashboard reads above the cold yet below the N. It took a good 10 mins to register anything and subsequently took a long time to settle in the lower quarter and below the N. So, obviously each of the senders I have bought clearly have different electrical resistance. A new smiths is also on order, so I will try that and report back. Appreciate this is not very scientific, nor electrical test - but I will chuck the Britpart but keep the 1977 NOS Smiths and 1980 Intermoter as spares and for the time being run the new Lucus until I test the new Smiths. I will also order an electrical test as I would like to get to the bottom of the temp versus electrical resistance. I shall also be carrying the infrared temp tester on board too.
 
ALLO ALLO, I will say this one more time.
You are trying like many before you to get an old at least 40 years gauge along with its equally old wiring and regulator to be accurate. If it does happen it will be just pot luck and will not last as further deterioration naturally happens. Re my previous post.
 
Yup. I am researching which capillary option to go with as they are a little £££. In the meantime, I am trying the pot luck strategy as an interim trying whats on the market and reporting accordingly. Perhaps call it cheap harmless market research. I have made enquiries with the capillary option with Emberton Imperial but also Smiths direct - which I do concur is the only scientific approach. I am waiting on prices and if there is the need for any adapter into the head 1/8inch 5/8ths etc. Thanks for both posts.
 
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