fuel/inertia switch/starting issue

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Zakmyster

Zakmyster

Member
Posts
11
Location
Shropshire
Evening all,

So ive got a manual td5 disco 2. parked it on the drive a bit back and it stalled by itself. and ive been trying for a couple months to get it going and still no luck. It turns over but doesnt turn on the fuel pump, no noiuse or priming. Ive put in a new fuel pump, still nothing. Ive swapped relays with others i know are working and still nothing. Bypassed the relay by taking it out and bridging over the perpendicular slots and the pump runs so the pump works. next i thought the inertia switch so bypassed that. Still nothing. i then read a few threads and noticed theres no glow plug light on the dash, swapped out the main relay and check it isnt a immobiliser issue but isnt that as the LED on the dash goes out and locks and unlocks fine with no hazards or anything when trying to start. ive also change the crank sensor incase that was doing something on a whim. also had new injector loom etc. but im at a lost and pretty confused as it doesnt even splutter, guessing cos the pumps not going. its like its not telling the relay to switch on for some reason. any help appreciated.

sorry for the long thread but thought id explain evorything.
cheers guys
 
Zakmyster said:
Evening all,

So ive got a manual td5 disco 2. parked it on the drive a bit back and it stalled by itself. and ive been trying for a couple months to get it going and still no luck. It turns over but doesnt turn on the fuel pump, no noiuse or priming. Ive put in a new fuel pump, still nothing. Ive swapped relays with others i know are working and still nothing. Bypassed the relay by taking it out and bridging over the perpendicular slots and the pump runs so the pump works. next i thought the inertia switch so bypassed that. Still nothing. i then read a few threads and noticed theres no glow plug light on the dash, swapped out the main relay and check it isnt a immobiliser issue but isnt that as the LED on the dash goes out and locks and unlocks fine with no hazards or anything when trying to start. ive also change the crank sensor incase that was doing something on a whim. also had new injector loom etc. but im at a lost and pretty confused as it doesnt even splutter, guessing cos the pumps not going. its like its not telling the relay to switch on for some reason. any help appreciated.

sorry for the long thread but thought id explain evorything.
cheers guys
Click to expand...
Have you tired jumpstarting it? As so often this sort of issue is down to a weak battery.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Have you tired jumpstarting it? As so often this sort of issue is down to a weak battery.
Click to expand...
I havnt tried that mate, but its a pretty new battery and has been on charge a couple days and tried before starting this thread as i know the injectors need more than 10.4v before they kick in but im confused why its not triggering the fuel pump relay
 
Zakmyster said:
Yeh it would be mate but im trying to find someone in the area with a nanocom and its proving a bit tricky. dont really fancy splashing out on one yet Lol
Click to expand...
TBH I'd not worry about a Nano for a while. Why not try doing what you did to get the fuel pump going then try to crank it again to see if it fires up and runs. Even if you have to jury rig wires to it. But be aware that if the ECM doesn't get a signal that the pump is running it still might not do its stuff and allow it to start.
any ideas @sierrafery ? ;)
 
Stanleysteamer said:
TBH I'd not worry about a Nano for a while. Why not try doing what you did to get the fuel pump going then try to crank it again to see if it fires up and runs. Even if you have to jury rig wires to it. But be aware that if the ECM doesn't get a signal that the pump is running it still might not do its stuff and allow it to start.
any ideas @sierrafery ? ;)
Click to expand...
Yeh, theres no adnormal lights on the dash so its like something isnt right and the truck is stopping it from firing on purpose but i just dont know what is giving it the impression it shouldnt run haha. i bridged the relay to get the pump going and tried cracking and still nout. heard pressure on the fuel rail so its getting there but its something telling the truck not to run, so like you say about the ECM, might not just be the fuel pump thats being told not to run. proper confused and just adiment to try and beat this gremlin, but no doubt there would be another
 
Zakmyster said:
Yeh, theres no adnormal lights on the dash so its like something isnt right and the truck is stopping it from firing on purpose but i just dont know what is giving it the impression it shouldnt run haha. i bridged the relay to get the pump going and tried cracking and still nout. heard pressure on the fuel rail so its getting there but its something telling the truck not to run, so like you say about the ECM, might not just be the fuel pump thats being told not to run. proper confused and just adiment to try and beat this gremlin, but no doubt there would be another
Click to expand...
when i say theres no adnormal lights on the dash, I mean its like the truck doesnt sense somthings wrong and need a nanocom. its like somethings not right and stopping itself. hope you get what i mean.
 
Zakmyster said:
when i say theres no adnormal lights on the dash, I mean its like the truck doesnt sense somthings wrong and need a nanocom. its like somethings not right and stopping itself. hope you get what i mean.
Click to expand...
Before spending the money give @sierrafery a chance to jump on and give his opinion, it might be something simple and he is the biz when it comes to the electronix on these trucks!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Before spending the money give @sierrafery a chance to jump on and give his opinion, it might be something simple and he is the biz when it comes to the electronix on these trucks!
Click to expand...
Yeh yeh sounds good, spent enough on what it turns out not to be so im trying to hold back for now. Which is bringing my other half alot of happieness haha. just been reading other threads on simular issues and he sounds like the man. cheers matey
 
Zakmyster said:
...just been reading other threads on simular issues and he sounds like the man.
Click to expand...

Hi. Maybe i'm the man but i used to respect my own decision written with red in my signature ;)

Ok, i'll make an exception seing your pain... seems that you bypassed the fuel pump relay and the circuit to pump is OK, now bridge the main relay(R9) the same way and see what happens then, also check fuses F12 and F13

for future inputs i must know at which level from 1 to 10 are you when it comes to electical troubleshooting based on diagrams?
 
Stanleysteamer said:
TBH I'd not worry about a Nano for a while. Why not try doing what you did to get the fuel pump going then try to crank it again to see if it fires up and runs. Even if you have to jury rig wires to it. But be aware that if the ECM doesn't get a signal that the pump is running it still might not do its stuff and allow it to start.
any ideas @sierrafery ? ;)
Click to expand...

A quick question on this (although I have a petrol LR), is it a drama to bypass the loom and give the fuel a continuous 12V feed? Switched so the pump is off when not running of course.
 
Loafer61 said:
A quick question on this (although I have a petrol LR), is it a drama to bypass the loom and give the fuel a continuous 12V feed? Switched so the pump is off when not running of course.
Click to expand...
Sorry, but I refer, and defer, to my learned friend @sierrafery on this.
I prefer wielding spanners and hammers to computers and diagnostics!!
 
Loafer61 said:
A quick question on this (although I have a petrol LR), is it a drama to bypass the loom and give the fuel a continuous 12V feed? Switched so the pump is off when not running of course.
Click to expand...
What are you trying to achieve?

The standard system does that doesnt it?

Maybe a new thread cos I cant see why?

J
 
sierrafery said:
Hi. Maybe i'm the man but i used to respect my own decision written with red in my signature ;)

Ok, i'll make an exception seing your pain... seems that you bypassed the fuel pump relay and the circuit to pump is OK, now bridge the main relay(R9) the same way and see what happens then, also check fuses F12 and F13

for future inputs i must know at which level from 1 to 10 are you when it comes to electical troubleshooting based on diagrams?
Click to expand...
Sorry its taken so long to reply, Ive just been busy with work and that jazz. Ive tried bypassing the main relay (R9) the same way i did the fuel pump relay and still just cranking and no glow plug light or fuel pump. Ive also checked the fuses in the engine bay and also the inside fuses and all are good.

I did read something about a possible issue with a transponder in the roof by the sunroof. Something to do witht he BCU but i might be mistaken but the issue on that thread was having other symtoms like the hazard lights were coming on when trying to crack etc. Just wondered on your opinion on it being the transponder/bcu/immobilisor. It does lock and unlock and the red light on the dash goes out when cranking so thought it probably isnt that personally.

Im very mechanically minded and good with most diagrams electrical and mechanical just for future referance, still stumped...

cheers for any advice
 
Zakmyster said:
It does lock and unlock and the red light on the dash goes out when cranking so thought it probably isnt that personally.
Click to expand...
Then it's definitely not the immobiliser

at this point you really need a compatible diagnostic tool to avoid more inefficient troubleshooting without that all you can do is to lift the engine bay fusebox and check connections or swap it with known good one to rule it out
 
sierrafery said:
Then it's definitely not the immobiliser

at this point you really need a compatible diagnostic tool to avoid more inefficient troubleshooting without that all you can do is to lift the engine bay fusebox and check connections or swap it with known good one to rule it out
Click to expand...
yeh thats what i thought,

When i crank it theres no smoke or smell or nout. i thought it could be the crank sensor so swapped that out so i think its time to get hold of a nano
 
On a second thought...as long as the pump doesnt start on ignition that's the path to be investigated, ... it means that the relay is missing the trigger signal, it must get positive feed from R9 and earth from the engine ECU so remove the pump relay and check with multimeter one probe to earth the other into coil's cavity(the parallel ones, check in both) if you get 12V when you turn ignition on... if yes the earth from ECU is missing if you ger 12V we'll speak again
 
sierrafery said:
On a second thought...as long as the pump doesnt start on ignition that's the path to be investigated, ... it means that the relay is missing the trigger signal, it must get positive feed from R9 and earth from the engine ECU so remove the pump relay and check with multimeter one probe to earth the other into coil's cavity(the parallel ones, check in both) if you get 12V when you turn ignition on... if yes the earth from ECU is missing if you ger 12V we'll speak again
Click to expand...
so, i put the ground of the tester straight onto the battery terminal and tried both parallel cavities on both relays.

On the fuel pump relay i got about 1.4v on the cavity closest to the wheel arch (pin 86 on the relay) and nothing on the other cavity.

On the main relay i got 12v on the same cavity (pin 1 on relay) and nothing on the other cavity.

this was the same on both relays if the ignition was on or off. from the haynes diagram in the book im led to believe the cavity on the main relay that is showing nothing goes to the interia switch but may be wrong. confused me a little as it refers to the main relay having spades 30, 86, 87 and 85 instead of the numbers ones it has on the actual larger black fuse if that makes sense
 
Zakmyster said:
so, i put the ground of the tester straight onto the battery terminal and tried both parallel cavities on both relays.

On the fuel pump relay i got about 1.4v on the cavity closest to the wheel arch (pin 86 on the relay) and nothing on the other cavity.

On the main relay i got 12v on the same cavity (pin 1 on relay) and nothing on the other cavity.

this was the same on both relays if the ignition was on or off. from the haynes diagram in the book im led to believe the cavity on the main relay that is showing nothing goes to the interia switch but may be wrong. confused me a little as it refers to the main relay having spades 30, 86, 87 and 85 instead of the numbers ones it has on the actual larger black fuse if that makes sense
Click to expand...
sorryits pin 85 not 86 on the fuel pump relay. but yeah basically getting 12 on the one cavity on both and nothing on the other, BUT thats the same with the ignition on or off. i wouldnt of thought they were meant to be constant lives.
 
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