Oil tracking though harness

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I wonder if the oil is a red herring. When I bought my Td5 I was too busy checking for rust I forgot about checking the red plug. When I eventually checked it a month later it was swimming in oil and was leaking out into the seatbox. It ran like a dream though, well except for the leaking fuel pressure regulator.
Fitted a new injector loom, after sealing it up, and it's been fine, didn't take long for any residual oil to stop leaking through.
 
Im starting to think that it isnt the harnass at fault (well not fully)

There really hasnt been much oil creeping out of the reg plug atall over the last week, with keeping it unplugged and facing down!

Im thinking that potentially the ECU could be on the way out, it is too inconsistent starting althought then it does start it still hunts around for a bit untill it idels smoothly..

Anyone else have any thoughts on this? ill try and get a video of start up in the morning - going to leave it running for a while

Still confuses me that on the live reading on the scanner that the injectors go out of range and dont come back in 🤷‍♂️
 
Im starting to think that it isnt the harnass at fault (well not fully)

There really hasnt been much oil creeping out of the reg plug atall over the last week, with keeping it unplugged and facing down!

Im thinking that potentially the ECU could be on the way out, it is too inconsistent starting althought then it does start it still hunts around for a bit untill it idels smoothly..

Anyone else have any thoughts on this? ill try and get a video of start up in the morning - going to leave it running for a while

Still confuses me that on the live reading on the scanner that the injectors go out of range and dont come back in 🤷‍♂️
But if the engine is running the pressure would force it to track down if it has found its way to the plug,??
 
But if the engine is running the pressure would force it to track down if it has found its way to the plug,??
Im going to leave it running for a couple hours tomorrow, its had some small runs, but honestly it just hasnt been showing signs anything making its way down really - needed a few wipes first off but nothing since.

Also i dont feel like that would also make starting an issue - which sometimes it doesnt want to fire over.

But no codes showing anywhere - want to make sure as best i can, before i do the best part of 700 on a harness that may not sort it
 
There shouldn't really be much pressure under the rocker cover, unless you have major problems with valve stem seals and piston rings. Anyway, it'll breathe out via the tube that goes from the rocker cover to the air inlet. TD5 ECUs do deteriorate. I've had considerably more duff ECUs than flat tyres in my 13 years of TD5 ownership. They don't make 'em any more, but there are second hand ones occasionally on Ebay. My experience is that they can be quite fussy. Mine refuses to start with anything other than an NNN500020, for example, and the other part numbers don't work. Land Rover wiring looms of that vintage deteriorate too. The insulation goes brittle and crumbly. The conductor wires aren't nice soft bendy copper but are hard and brittle too. Add a bit of oil and salty road dirt into the mix and its a recipe for unreliability. Another problem can occur in the wires between the accelerator pedal (or 'driver demand', as the manual calls it). This usually shows up as the engine going into a tickover-level limp mode and the yellow engine light showing. I stumped up for a new wiring loom a few years ago - the whole thing, not just the injector loom - and I've had much better electronic reliability since. Compared to the old one, the new harness felt really soft and supple, so I hope the materials are fit for purpose.

Also, I've discovered that it's possible for the ECU to look OK on the Nanocom but be useless for starting the car. I have two ECUs now, and it's very handy to have them to swap over for diagnostic purposes.

Oh, and if you end up swapping ECUs, don't forget to sync the ECU and the immobiliser unit afterwards, otherwise it won't start. On the Nanocom it's under 'utilities' and it's called 'learn security code' or sometimes 'learn DDS code'.
 
There shouldn't really be much pressure under the rocker cover, unless you have major problems with valve stem seals and piston rings. Anyway, it'll breathe out via the tube that goes from the rocker cover to the air inlet. TD5 ECUs do deteriorate. I've had considerably more duff ECUs than flat tyres in my 13 years of TD5 ownership. They don't make 'em any more, but there are second hand ones occasionally on Ebay. My experience is that they can be quite fussy. Mine refuses to start with anything other than an NNN500020, for example, and the other part numbers don't work. Land Rover wiring looms of that vintage deteriorate too. The insulation goes brittle and crumbly. The conductor wires aren't nice soft bendy copper but are hard and brittle too. Add a bit of oil and salty road dirt into the mix and its a recipe for unreliability. Another problem can occur in the wires between the accelerator pedal (or 'driver demand', as the manual calls it). This usually shows up as the engine going into a tickover-level limp mode and the yellow engine light showing. I stumped up for a new wiring loom a few years ago - the whole thing, not just the injector loom - and I've had much better electronic reliability since. Compared to the old one, the new harness felt really soft and supple, so I hope the materials are fit for purpose.

Also, I've discovered that it's possible for the ECU to look OK on the Nanocom but be useless for starting the car. I have two ECUs now, and it's very handy to have them to swap over for diagnostic purposes.

Oh, and if you end up swapping ECUs, don't forget to sync the ECU and the immobiliser unit afterwards, otherwise it won't start. On the Nanocom it's under 'utilities' and it's called 'learn security code' or sometimes 'learn DDS code'.
Thanks for the reply and info my man.

ECU is getting sent off to ECUTesting tomorrow, the more i look into the issues, the more it seems that the ECU is at fault.

Atleast in a week or so ill have it back and well know for sure :) not to say the loom wont need changing, very tempted to just change it anyway, but rather go through one part at a time first
 
Land rover must smoke some seriously good stuff when they dream these 'advances' up!! Loom inside the oily bit.. that's actually genius!!
Fuel Injectors inside the rocker box are another idea in the same class, if it or its pipe/connection leaks fuel goes into the sump and dilutes the lubricating oil and you will know nowt about it unless you check the dip stick very often.
 
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