As above first thing is to ensure structurally and mechanically sound. If that has been done you can focus on cosmetics.
What you have looks from the single photo to aboriginal and unmolested. As they are currenrtly what command the highest...
That is good to know, mine is very much the same [1990 Ninety] good chassis and bulkhead, tidy inside but bit tat body, paint non existent in some places but it is still a working farm vehicle. Out in the country side looks fine but not so in a...
TV's Mythbusters proved it is possible to polish a turd, but a turd is still a turd even if there is a shine on the outside.
Checking and sorting any issues with chassis, bulkhead and running gear is what should come first.
It could be something getting hot in the speedo. Perhaps a drop (no more!) of oil where the speedo shaft runs in the bush in the back of the speedo might help.
Logic: The speedo relies on the generation of eddy currents. These currents...
Just tighten up with a usual length ratchet handle and socket.
If your bolts are original worth getting a new set.
Some come with pre applied thread lock. [no spring washer used] Not only does it keep em in but is better than using copper slip...
Standard drop plate for series at John Craddock £23, couple of fat washers will do instead of silly priced plate in @Wildefalcon post. Bolts will be imperial size.
Remember which way the fuel pipes go.
The link pipe between the carbs has a restriction for the return
These carbs are simple as above needles or float stuck.
Gentle tap with a bit of wood on the base sometimes frees them up
It wasn't me, way over my head. I worked on aircraft for 24 years but the car system is beyond me. It took a guy who knows the ford engine to work it out. Took him 30 mins.
The cylinder seals for your slave may well be STC 500090 from LR parts [ no guaranty]
Do not pull the rod as can be a git to replace through the slave hole.
To clean out the housing remove tunnel, gearstick and access plate and blast with an air...