Tony Monsantoe's latest activity

In an ongoing effort to lighten the pedal in my Series 2 I fitted a bearing to replace the bronze bush in the linkage. I have also converted the hydraulic line to 1/4" courtesy of an adaptor from a Series 3 clutch master cylinder. These two...

yes they can be far away from the pedal assembly as some i have seen had them on the passengers side near the carby. but yes it is defo a booster as you can see the brake pipes going to it. if it was to play up youd not really need it to be honest.

its a remote booster, i think some landrovers used them in australia, and i think it was the series2a's that had them as they had no brake booster as the series 3's had and i think they used them on ones that towed heavy loads, but defo will be a...

I have a series 3 diesel farm run around. Would say poodling around the farm does not make the engine work hard so a good Italian tune up now and then clears out oily carbon gunge. 😁

Yup it's running a stat. :). Away from the car for a few days. Will drop a picture when I am back!

thermostat (stat) but if its breathing out the dipstick sounds like it has blowby either the rings are getting clogged up with carbon or the crankcase is not venting well through the breather. if you remove the oil filler cap when its running and...

At the risk of tempting fate it would appear that my 'shed'is now fixed. It now has a swirl pot on the bulkhead, freshly rebuilt Weber, new Facet electric pump with filter under the drivers floor. I have filters in pump, filter housing, extra...

do they sell that in the uk, i recall years ago they had it but it was a leaded stuff and w2hen unleaded came in its all marketed as unleaded but at different octane ratings we have 91 which is the low end 95 and 98, all of those are unleaded as...

looks like yuasa is a rubbish brtand now i heard lots say they have no faith in that brand now, the oem batteries used in some toyotas was not even yuasa some fs brand or panasonic and i found out the oem batteries get a long time my parents...

i used to get vapor lock all the time and others i spoke to had never heard of it, its like a odd one that only very few will get it and others never, fuel is shi-te today it aint like it used to be, even with no lead it still is sh-it as early...

gosh a s3 with bmw power and disco axles, you need to show some pics of it so far..

Jumping on this thread, I am looking at the same conversion (P38 to a S3 109), but to complicate things I am running Disco 1 axels on leaf springs, and an M57 lump up front. What would be the neatest solution with this setup?

P38 pump and BMW mini cooper on the front

If the starter solenoid is not earthed it won't work.

I got a pair of SU carbs off a rover p6 (3500). One powers my 2.25 2A

Thanks both, confirmed my thinking really. LR used different weight flywheels for a reason so I should stick with that. Housing and starter motor are easy to come by, flywheels less so unless I splash out a couple of hundred quid on a new one...

if you can get hold of the bell housing and flywheel and starter from a petrol you might be better going that way.

Good that the regulations make things easy. I retro fitted inertia reel seatbelts to my series 3 but it already has static belts so used the mountings for them. You will need the lower brackets that bolt to the sill (LINK) (I like YRM as they are...

i got new ngk plugs BP5ES which are non resistor type ones and a new lead from the coil as the coil terminal on the cap corrodes a lot i have noticed but none of the other caps ends to plugs corrode. its going ok for now im still a bit skeptical...

Check the plug gaps. If they're too big it can erode the distributor cap pins.

yes ok then. also i think i have resisitor plugs and resistor leads so that could be my issue as in the past i ran resistor plugs as i had supressed leads and i had a bad condenser.

there shouldnt be any ballast resistor on a series

it has no ballast resisitor but my plugs are resistor type plugs i think the leads are ohh yeah they could be resistor or as they stamp on leads here supression type leads, the coil i did replace recently as the older one i had on was giving much...

I also don't have much faith in the modern components as the quality is not what it was back in the good old days. Luckily I still have a few OE condensers from a friend whose father ran a motor factors a long time ago. Firstly I would dump the...

Also, examine the small earthing wire from your baseplate to the distributor body for tight connections and general condition. They don't last forever.

yes ok thanks i will have a look at that tomorrow its 7:30pm here.

where are you reading 11.8v? engine off should be over 12.6v, with engine running it should be 13.6-14.4v (for an old 16acr alternator) where are you reading 6-7v? The coil should run at battery voltage

on the + and - of the coil, first was engine off and second was with it running. its been like this for years, but i have added a few more gauges over the past few years and they run from the back of the spare terminal in the ignition switch i...

Assuming the consensus are good quality then check the wiring is good and you have a good earth. Double check it's the right condenser as well. Have you checked the running voltage?

yes good parts they are for the lucas distributor i have not yet did anything with the wiring from the ignition switch to the fuse and to the coil, ok power off voltage about 11.8v and when running it is 6 to 7 v and thats with the pos and neg on...