Recent content by svenology
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so to test, if I put a 12Ohm load instead of teh relay's solenoid, I should get no book symbol...
or... just a 12W light bulb....
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adding on...
wrong load on the relay vs. compressor would also explain why I still get a service book symbol, when bridging...
meaning, now I have NO load... not even the relay... so old school HEVAC not happy.... Correct thinking?
When R3 is bridged... compressor runs just like it should...
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burning 50Watts seems the wrong approach... I'll check the HEVAC first.
I might even have another unit from my old 2001 in one of my many bins from moving to back to Europe... ended up ordering an already rebuilt unit when the screen was acting up for an immediate switch and rebuilt the other...
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in https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/air-con-woes-nanacom.312452/
@boycie says https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/air-con-woes-nanacom.312452/post-3951061
That seems to confirm suspicions now of a wrong/older HEVAC front end in a new car
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the relay I swapped already... so that seems to be just fine.
But explain to me this... how does the HEVAC "see" the current the AC clutch draws? Isn't the clutch engaged by the relay and the relay's solenoid current drawn is the only thing that the HEVAC sees.
Meaning the hypothesis is, that if...
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Followed your advice...
when I jumper the pins 30 & 5 I have a working A/C circuit.
Clutch engages. Fans run every now and then... I get cold air. AC clutch also seems to be cycling... i.e. turn off for a few seconds every now and then.
Climate control works perfectly... I even can do hot on one...
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and on the new setup with the relay, the HEVAC would only measure the resistance/load to the relay, no longer to the compressor clutch as it used to... correct?
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from @wammers on https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/p38-hevac-unit-versions.228929/post-2624184
"It is the dual pressure switch that controls the compressor."
So maybe I do have a bad switch or bad relay. My HEVAC controller is the newer version with heated seats buttons (is that truly the...
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I never replaced the unit... BUT now that this drive transistor comes into play, I wonder if that is the issue...
That would in my mind make the most sense currently for the book only showing when HEVAC is trying to use the AC. And the AC clutch only being engaged so briefly.
I did find it...
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this is the switch I am thinking...
I do not ever hear the fans going on when the AC is allowed to go... but presumably just like my other cars, that wouldn't happen until the system is active for a while.
I do get the fans to go on for engine temp every now and then when it's hot... (driving...
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I will give that a look. what I am missing in this diagram is the second switch that is for the fans... or is this a newer version, which would explain why my fans switch on when the engine gets very hot.... which seems to not be mentioned anywhere else for the the diesel models...
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Car has been recharged at a professional shop and the pressure was all good.. also no leaks... but also there... the AC did not cycle... so the million dollar question... who determines the cycling and via what sensors?
Clearly the HVAC codes for the fail don't exist.
My blend motor fault might...
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I have had 3 failed motors on my last RR and other than the adjustments not working or the left and the right getting different temps of air, when they should be the same, the AC always worked... i lived in California... and a no AC car is as bad as a failed engine car there!
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honestly i think the car has basically no rust for a a Range Rover... the clips all seem visible and moveable.
If the bumper wasn't painted I would have already taken it off a long time ago... but this one is pristine and has a clear coat etc... so my worry is getting it all ruined when I fumble...
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i know this sounds super "princess"... but my bumper is gloss color matched to the body paint...
In your estimation, if I put down a blanket... what's the chance I still get it damaged due to warp, falling etc??
also... off is one question like @Datatek said... but back on all alone??