SteveG4TRA's latest activity

So with no fluid in the system (pipes, valve actuator block, pump all removed) that the actuators lock up stiffening the ARB?

So what exactly did you do Meego when you "Bi-passed the system eventually and wish I had gone that route first. You don’t need to fit ARB’s either as the rams will lock up."

Now at rock bottom point of this ****ty job. The pipes are totally welded into the valve actuator block, there is no movement whatsoever. Obviously dissimilar metal corrosion has set up between the metal pipes and the aluminum block. Great design...

I tried the new seal/pipe route. No matter what I done, it leaked at the valve block. Bi-passed the system eventually and wish I had gone that route first. You don’t need to fit ARB’s either as the rams will lock up.

Right, the pipes are off the car (damn they were rough), however there is still 6" left in the valve-actuator block resisting all attempts to shift. It seems I was wrong regarding the tangs on the white collets. As per the picture kindly provided...

I hydraulic hose converted mine

Not all D2s had ACE, so calling it a "non-original conversion" is stretching things a wee bit. Put it this way it wouldn't bother an insurance comapny nor an MOT tester.

Be aware that if you bought complete pipes untill the block you need new seals(RVW100010) and plastic collars(ANR6700) under the bracket, some sellers say they are for air suspension which is wrong, the old ones are not reusable

The bolt is to remove the old seals... tap in the new seals and bin that black plastic part but after you removed the old seals clean very well the holes cos the old o-rings used to get stuck in there or leave residues which can hurt the new ones...

Although a bit late on this one, it is possible to repair your ace pipes using compression fittings. the pipes are 3/8" not 10mm. Use steam fittings and 3/8" air-con pipe which is made to work at much higher pressure than normal plumbers pipe...

Thank SF. I am really starting to feel a bit more confident of doing this pipe replacement right first time. From the first picture it shows the white plastic collets that lock the tube into the valve block which is then in turn held in with the...

I understand that, but I was referring to my particular car. So I now have most of the bits, just awaiting the banjo washers. However I am somewhat bemused as to the fitting of the seal kit for the valve block end. The "instructions" are very...

Thanks for the ideas gents. As I see it there are three choices when it comes to ACE repairs all with their own pros and cons. 1. Keep it standard. Bite the bullet, purchase two new pipes. For: It was how the car was designed in the first...

Last night my 2003 Discovery S2 developed a rear ACE pipe leak. Inspection this morning shows the usual pipe corrosion around the area towards the rear anti-roll system at the point it goes over the chassis outrigger clamp, forward of the...

OK it seems there is no assistance regarding this issue, so here's closure as found by myself. Talking to one of the Alpine LR radio, re-coder, repairers they said 99% of this sort of problem are caused by leaky screens and water damage to the...

On my 2003 LR Discovery S2 the radio is dead, refusing to turn on when the volume control is pressed on the head unit. Its a ES model with a tape player slot, multiple CD loader under the drivers seat and rear headphone panels. It started...

Unit is back, Screen has been replaced and is working OK now. Watch out though if you send a Nanocom back to Black Box Solutions. They'll ask you to send it via DHL E commerce who are next to useless. Unable to track parcel either by their web...