SimonBrown's latest activity

Not quite, but that line of thinking triggered a memory! They go under the centre tub capping - the one on the bulkhead - and rivets through the top capping hold them on. So thank you...jigsaw puzzle piece solved.

Parts went off to the platers, but cannot for the life of me remember where they came from. Nor can I find them in the photos or 3D models... They are handed, and I know they are mine (not mixed up) as I stamped "LH" and "RH" on them as an aide...

Steelwork picked up from the platers today: Which has come up pretty good considering the state some of it was in. Its almost a shame to paint them, but long term protection is needed. Trial fit: There were some cappings that came back that I...

I think it would be possible to use a bussed 4-way connector. 3 of the cable entries could be used, and the 4th one filled with a blanking plug - which are available. Like these: DT Blanking Plugs I have not got to a point where I need to make...

I don't I'm afraid, apart from those shown on page 9 of the PDF link above. Frustratingly they do not do a three way split. But the 4 way looks useful.

No thanks, i'll stick with the Lucas connectors, trying to find a cable fault in a fiddly 6 or 8 wire connector doesn't sound like fun. My father would turn in his grave with the thought of fitting German connectors to a Landrover ...

They are not German, but American...which these days some rank as unwelcome too, on account of the trade tariffs. Apparently.

I found another £1.82 stuck to the dash tray with what looks like green Loctite...or very dried up and sticky Nightnurse. This resto wont fund itself so every penny counts!

I'm in the process of slowly converting every bullet crimp connector to Deutsch DT series (For anyone interested, more info here: DT Series Tech Specs) I knew them from a previous life and decided to fit them wherever possible on the 110 that is...

At some point the previous owner(s) had decided to become an auto electrican and add some...unsual mods: First up, a relay where every wire coming to or leaving it is...black: Go on...gizza clue... Black worked as a colour scheme for the...

Progress update. First up, stripping the heater box down: The good news is the fan motor is in fine fettle and its just surface corrosion to deal with. Disassembly was easy enough. The decision to use both spot welds and pop rivets along the...

I have repaired similar using CT1 to stick on some aluminium backing plates and then body filler to finish.

Actually PU adhesive would probably be fine, in conjunction with rivets, being non structural. 2 pack panel glue is more for structural areas.

They are essentially the same as windscreen adhesive, so pretty robust.

My father in law used to build horseboxes and he swore by TigerSeal for all sorts. I used the Sika version when I resealed the sunroofs on my disco, and they’re not coming back out in a hurry that’s for sure !!

This resto is not going to fund itself...

Have used sikaflex. Hold the doors/windows onto the side of a horse lorry. Also used this for blanking off alpines/rear door/rear passenger doors with Ali. Yep it’s pricey but worth it. Can’t remember if it contains stuff that paint don’t...

I have a couple of similar repairs to undertake on my replacement station wagon tub. My plan was to use tigerseal (or sikaflex, i am not brand loyal!) to glue the repair plate in place along with some rivets. I am not trying to achieve a perfect...

At £20 I might just take one for the team...

It’s worth a punt at £20 surely. Try it on a test piece and then let me know how it works. That way it’ll save me wasting 20 quid 😁

That might be crap, never used it, 3M is probably good but the cost seems very prohibitive for the casual user.

That looks like its worth a go. A quick search around for Optima didnt find many results on t'interweb. So the nagging concern is how old is their stock and what's the shelf life? (Edit: data sheet says 2 year shelf life unopened container)...

3M will be the proper gear. I’m sure I asked YRM when I got the replacement part what they recommended and it was 3M, buts it’s stupid money just to use a very small amount of it. I’ve saved this seller and if it’s still on the go next time I...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/376123348536 How about something like this which is a 2 pack but uses a normal cartridge gun?

There must be a tube of single pack adhesive you could use at a reasonable price.

Countersunk pop rivets?

One option. But the metal is often very thin and not much room for the countersink.

It's getting the galvanic reaction crud out fully that may be a problem ...

Good point. Its smaller, more localised areas where there is already a fold/stiffener I'm thinking about. Like these: The last one is a historical repair that needs redoing. The adhesive would not be used alone, but would cut down the number...

I think the fact the alloy sheet is flat is going to be your biggest enemy, ie it can wibble/wobble like a thunder sound board is going to make a glued joint fail.