sierrafery's latest activity

Nothing obviously wrong in those readings except that the coolant temp goes a bit higher than normal, if it's blowing black smoke i doubt it's underfuelled but there can be a leak along the air inlet/turbo circuit somewhere, some important things...

Agree with Sierra, those DTC's don't really mean anything. Have a good look around starter, just beware of live wires ! Can't recall the part name but I had the ignition barrel fail on mine which resulted in non start, but this was a gradual...

Unfortunately you can't rely on those fault codes cos Foxwell is not reliable with the Td5 engine management codes that's a verified fact, first of all this has nothing to do with the engine management or fault codes and if you unlocked with...

I couldnt compare them live to see the real benefits but AFAIK the 500070 has some software upgrades for better CDL-TC cooperation and better fault code protocol

The only thing both systems are sharing is the IDM(interior fusebox) no common earth nor headers/connectors as the washer pump is in front aand the wiper motor at the rear, the BCU is involved only in the washer's activity so the first suspect is...

The voltage dropped about 1.5V while cranking. My gut feel was it's a fuelling issue (given it would only attempt to fire while bumping at full throttle and high revs) so having worked through the easy/obvious stuff I pulled the pump out of...

SRD000150 is the first upgraded version and the 500070 has even more upgrade.

I can't see any reason for that

If some people didnt have problems means that they were lucky to not get into the worst scenario, if you lock the diff while the engine is running the TC will work normally then if you get stuck turn ignition off then on as the lights to come on...

The TC warning light has nothing to do with the wire i mentioned, not affected, cutting that wire the ECU will not "know" that the diff is locked and the TC can come in conflict with the locked diff in some cases that's all, while the newer ECU...

It does only with the new SLABS... with early ECU if the CDL input wire was cut there are scenarios when you can lose traction for good and overheat the brakes... you can borrow nanocom for a week on ebay if you can't find somebody to help

So, I had to move the old Disco so I could do some strimming, but found the key fob wouldnt open the doors. Luckily one of the rear doors locks is knackered, so I still had a way in. None of the fobs would open the deadlocked doors, so found some...

Just lock the diff before you start the engine as the ABS/TC lights to be on then the TC will not work against the CDL...provided that the wire i mentioned was not cut

like i said you can make a manual solution for about a tenna

IMO my answer was not ambiguous at all but i'll try to clarify :

it acts in a well engineered manner on wheels and axles which is more complicated than the simple description from the WSM and i know that based on many live tests in field and dyno platform with live data readings , the gist is that the better...

+1 👍

It's not that bad to fit, and it's handy to have the CDL and TC working correctly together.

then you should learn first how these things work cos TC acts in axle pairs too not just on one wheel so if the props are locked while for example a rear left and a front right whell are spinning the TC would try to equalise on each axle first...

re-connect??? so it was once connected then disconnected by the PO??? 2001 modell might not have the "hardware" for that, are you sure you have what to "re-connect"? if the TB has the diff-lock spigot and working with a a spanner you are the only...

As long as you didnt cut the cdl input wire to the slabs like some smart guys say you should nothing bad can happen cos the TC will be inghibited to not work against the locked diff with the early ECU.. as about i have no other comment though...

Hi, it needs programming to set it exactly to your vehicle's equipment unless it was removed from a 100% similar modell like your's which is quite unlikely and i doubt you can be sure of that

then fix the diff-lock switch or it's circuit as to make the warning to work cos even if you fit a mechanical linkage you can't be sure the diff is locked or unlocked unill the warning shows it's on or off, plenty of info about that...

I must insist for the last time to measure the battery voltage WHILE CRANKING, the fact that the battery is new is irrelevant if there is a draw while cranking for some reason and the voltage drops more than 2V it will not start

Yes, after the orings were changed it's a good practice to check the oil level and smell in the first days after each drive

You are not supposed to push the throttle once it fired up untill it didnt idle a bit on it's own and if it started once and ran no matter how never touch the throttle without engine already running cos you flood the engine, insisting to start it...

"OEM" means nothing these days, it's just a marketing scam for various aftermarket parts, if you can't afford genuine LR(which are actually green) then buy branded ones like Viton, a friend of mine fitted some so called OEMs and they leaked...

If you mean the method with the EGR actuator connected to the diff lock spigot on the transfer box which locks the central diff i'd ask why would you remove that if it works cos it's a good mod, all you can do is to replace it with a dedicated...

was that while cranking? ...cos that's the only relevant reading... also dont try to crank it when you try to bump start it

Just seen this it must get above 250 rpm to start, see the battery voltage while cranking, if it drops below 10.5V it will hardly start cos it needs more to open the injectors it's in the "Outputs" menu last line... better read the user guides...