resto_d1's latest activity

A bloody fiddly job. Angles, twists and tiny pieces. You can see that the crossmember is supposed to be sandwiched between inner and outer skin. I wonder how many actually do this as you have to chop off a bit more than you’d want to. My pencil...

Got couple hours in. A welding story board. Bit of tweaking and messing about but I’m happy. Z piece ready to be melted on now.

That’s interesting. I was so snobby that it was gkn or nothing for me and I only drive across fields.

Oem flanges dont have the best tolerances so you do get a fair bit of fretting and transmission slap. Fairly reduced with the HD flanges! Think ill stick with britpart shafts and CVs takes a fair bit of lead foot and shockload to actually break...

Those HD CVs are seriously expensive too. I agree with the above - I reckon if you hadve had cheap members they would’ve cheesed up first. Do you decide where the weakest link is to be and make it the cheapest part lol? Like you said, go HD with...

That’s some torque… think as all your stuff is HD when it goes,it goes well… Form them pics I would say the shaft splines would not give way and expanded while been twisted. Once it was wedged in the stub that’s when it snapped the shaft. (See...

LR has issued a new standard for durability testing the "joshtest' we have yet to see how many suppliers do in this space, News just in ......Britpart and Terrafirma have ceased trading as a result.

Thank you sir 👍🏻

Pad had a male bit, support beam has female. Pad pushes in like a grommet 👍🏻

…

One pad on each stool (for want of a better word?!)

I’ve got that bar ripped out at the moment with the pads underneath - I’ll put a picture up tomorrow. They push fit to the underside of the box beam

Those HD drive members must be good too! You would’ve thought that would’ve gone before the shaft

You were abusing that thing weren’t you 😂😂😂 How the fcuk have you managed that. They OE shafts?!

Oh and 2 on light boxes!

It’s a rubber pad for your boot floor I think but if you zoom out I can tell 👍🏻 Body mounts are 2x in engine bay, 2 x front sill, 2 rear sill, 2 rear crossmember

Test fit

Just shout if unsure mate. No pro but I’ve gutted one before and got mine in bits now. I’ll update the thread with the bits that need ticking off so it helps others also 👍🏻

Ah perfect, thanks!

This one https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rear-cross-member-floor-support-lr-discovery-1/ @K2tnt You can measure the spot welded brackets from your existing one, chop the lot out, drill the bracket spot welds out then weld them back on to your new...

You need the z piece mate

Oh that’s a winner then!!

Get what you pay for….

Hello all, First time landy owner here so apologies if i ask the obvious questions, so please go easy 🤣! Bought and collected a 1989 Defender 90 with a 200tdi engine at the weekend as a on going project! Already changed the headlight and tinted...

And because dirty grinding and drilling jobs get laborious, I finished a b pillar off. Just needs some sealer at the bottom. Lanoguard grease sandwich between the body, shims and brackets

Trying to remove the z piece at rear half intact just so I have reference for the trim clips. Time to get bracing now.

Contemplating buying 2 new rear tubs. Bloody expensive but the amount of plate and patches hurts my eyes. I’d have to strip it all back and cut back to patch more. There’s repairs required to the pillars and I also need to pull the triangle floor...

Don’t know if of interest or not, but people may find use in the routine I use for areas like chassis where rust is present but not terminal. Step one - Clean with degreaser. I use screwfix no nonsense. It’s excellent and doesn’t burn through...

Today’s work involved removing what was left of the floor. Using this as an opportunity to remove and sort the fuel sedimented which was seized up. I also ended up removing the seat clasp boxes either side as the wheel arches are rusty and will...