pwood999's latest activity

If the same issue on rr.net is also you, as well as reading RAVE, watch the video posted there.

Firing the parts cannon is an expensive way of fixing things. Does the brake pump run? It should run every 3 to 5 depressions of the brake pedal. If it doesn't run then check the fuses but it's likely that the pressure switch has failed. The...

Yep , hopefully the op will come back and say thk u and plse As a side note as it’s becoming more prevalent maybe we should stop answering threads that don’t say plse or thk u in the future

Didn't know it was an FL2 when I posted. Will delete my post !!

Nanocom shows the boost pressure (I assume MAP), in the EDC-Inputs-General page:

Remote control ??

+1 on it needing pressure. Just looked at the diagram above, and it's quite obvious when you think about it. The post-turbo intake pipework is unlikely to have much pressure in neutral no matter what revs !! Looking at eBay pics of the...

I manage with an ordinary stick welder and very thin rods.

I've got a small SIP Migmate 130, but not used it in nearly 20 years !! Problem with it, was the wire feed motor would change speed as the arc started & get stuck. Did a mod using a separate transformer for the feed motor, which worked a...

Doubt it’s that thick. Make it bigger & use a vernier ?? TBH I agree with clean ing rust & use fibreglass & filler.

When I did my P38 propshafts, the bearing caps were slightly below the circlips. I centred the UJ as best I could, and then filled with grease which expanded the caps firmly against the circlips. Does sound like dropped roller, unless the UJ's...

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It’s. It a truck !!

If the doors & tailgate are all closed, and the car is low, then the compressor is feeding the tank and any airbags that need to rise. To fill the tank only a door or tailgate needs to be open. Your compressor failure two weeks ago could either...

After doing the chip replacement a while back on my spare HEVAC, got back on the HEVAC in the P38 again today. Replaced the 16-pin connector completely, and then tested all three motors using 9V battery & multimeter. LH Blend pot goes from...

Probably the gasket, or whatever sealant has been used in the past. Looks a bit like where the front cover sealant is supposed to go ?? Put the EAS on maximum height, and place blocks under the bump stops to prevent it dropping. Then just...

+1 ^^^^^^ Release the pressure slowly using a thick towel or rag on the cap.

Careful how you take the cap off the expansion tank because the coolant could boil over.

It's about right for tickover, but you either need working diagnostics, or move the multimeter so you can see it from drivers seat. For your diagnostic issue, check the voltage across Pin-16 (12V) and Pin-4 (Ground). Connector might need...

It would help to know the Low & High pressure readings. Might not be the filter

Took wife's 2005 FL1 for MOT today. Passed with no advisories !!

Did you do the pressure test wiht the engine hot ? If not, get it properly warmed up for a few miles, and then do the pressure check.

You could try the old idea of soaking in bucket of diesel for a week or so ??

If it's only a small amount missing, chances are it's evaporated by the time you look for it !!

Also check that GEMS is set for the correct engine size. 2nd screen in settings menu. Once you get the settings in the right ballpark, you should do some drive cycles to train the ECU.

Also unplugged & tested blend & distrib motors using 9V battery & multimeter on the pots via the 16-pin connector. All seem to be working ok with smooth resistance change through the adjustment. But, when plugged back into the HEVAC, I get...

For info, here's my GEMS at idle. No faults stored, and adaptive not cleared for many months.

Yes, using Nanocom Inputs screen.

That's HEVAC on diagnostics I presume? The display is outside air temperature.

Replaced connector on heater core sensor. Old one was rather corroded where the copper wires were crimped. Now HEVAC says correct remp instead of -8deg !!