I did Basingstoke to Langley on the stops, again no problem albeit a bit uncomfartable.
If we try harder we could get this thread up to a few hundred posts !!
The lock button only moves the small white lever to lock & unlock the latch. The cable for the inside handle and the outside handle both move the unlatching mechanism.
Best bet would be to get another latch & understand how it works first...
It does sound like you bought a duffer, and used a garage that doesn't do the jobs properly. Both mine are rather reliable. The only exceptions are things that fail on all cars at some point.
You aint been here long. Wait until you see how far off topic we can take it :):cool:
oh, and btw, one (i.e. you) is mostly incorrect about lots of things P38.
and if your garage had followed the LR manuals, they should have used an exhaust clamp, not a u-bolt !! If positioned properly it cannot impact the diff. Nether of mine are anywhere near the diff
You are not listening, the hole was caused by a badly fitted exhaust, no part of the exhaust should be able to come into contact with the back axle or any other part of the running gear even when the car is on the bump stops. It could even have...
X8R for the parts. Replace all the o-rings & diaphragm valve. Do the compressor refurb as well.
Before & after that check the airbag for leaks where the airline enters, and around the folds in the bags at all four heights.
Sounds like you need a better garage, given they fitted the exhaust badly. If the u-bolt was that close, the chances are Access Mode could also do the same damage with the EAS working. I cannot find a single instance in the 600,000 posts on...
Almost certainly air leaks, and a worn or failing compressor. Could also be leaky diaphragm valve.
@dubloman your location is a bit vague !! Plenty of us in the UK, but only those near your town could help !! Put it in your profile
I second that about the rain. Lower half has been useful at times, i.e. as a laptop bench when several of us were working on a Virgin/Liberty Global Trials site in the good weather. In the bad weather a one-piece tailgate would have been...
Ha Ha. Never heard of that. Would need to be a sudden failure that dropped the car onto rocks or similar. Even on the bump stops, the exhaust is nowhere near the ground. If the exhaust was badly fitted maybe the axles came into contact ...
Diameter or AWG is what the suppliers use. 25sqmm seems to be between 2 & 3 AWG, so I wonder if these will do the job ?
Opinions welcome !!
Option 1
Option 2
+1 on that. Marty experimented creating a replacement EAS driver pack using modern solenoid hit-drop driver chips, etc. It worked, but did suffer gremlins & glitches. The plan was good, but if I remember he was too busy to complete the project.
This is what I have found:
For the cable crimps, I have a hydraulic crimp tool, but need to get some crimps large enough for the cables. If I go this route will also do the salt & vinegar copper cleaning & probably solder the ends as...
So last night while driving to Fleet, my Green P38 completely cut out a few times, although only for a second or two. All electrics dies, but came back, so I thought fusebox again ?? Luckily it recovered each time, so continued on & got it...
Yes you are correct, my error, put it down to old age and the fact that the EAS is so reliable that it's been a long time since I have used the software. I have edited my post thanks.
The P38 EAS is not OBDII compliant, so that scanner is unlikely to work.
Put your town name in your forum profile - there might be peeps nearby with proper P38 diagnostics & experience fixing it.
Can't remember how many either, but yes I will probably need 20. Let us know how your guinea pig does !!
LR Cat shows either 11 or 14 clips for lower trim depending on VIN.
Keith, Yes will def go for high temp one. I'm gonna try putting it on the power feed close to the pack first & see if that helps. Might even do the old thing of putting a 100nF ceramic in parallel with the electrolytic.
I have another pack...