pscan.eu's latest activity

I removed both belts (PAS and alternator). The noise stays the same.

can anyone tell me what they think this noise is? doesn't do it when the drivetrain is cold:-

I have spent a few days playing with different types of solder. I got some 56% silver, and it is incredibly strong:- but, I had to get it very, very hot to make it work. An ordinary propane torch wasn't hot enough and I had to go to MAP X gas...

today went a bit better as I managed to dismantle the starter motor:- so I can just heat the bit that I need to silver solder it, not the whole thing:- the only part of this that seems plastic is the dust shield on that front bearing. I...

the results are in:- weld let go on the pinion. I think that I have been incredibly lucky. It that had fallen off and gone round the flex plate or torque converter I think that there's a real chance that it would have smashed it's way out...

I may have a resolution to my gearbox rattles. We shall see. Yesterday I went to visit an auto gearbox specialist for them to have a listen. They were adamant that the noise sounded like something outside of the gearbox, so inside the bell...

not quite true. I haven't cracked the instrument cluster or the cruise control ECU yet

I found "PP-T40" inside the airbox, so it's Polypropylene, a type of thermoplastic. Apparently it's difficult to glue so I will need to weld it.

anyone know what kind of plastic a Freelander 1 air filter box is made from? I need to modify mine to clear a coolant pipe that I added for the transmission cooler.

If I knew which part is causing the noise, I would change it. It has to be either the oil pump or the torque converter. I don't really want a bad part to spread metal through an otherwise good gearbox.

First drive, and according to my friend who was driving (because he has trade insurance to drive anything), it drives very, very nicely:-

No, it was used parts Russian roulette

actually, I just tried it on our TD4, and Hill Descent is supposed to start flashing as soon as you press the button, and then it goes solid once either the 1st or R switches close. But I'm not longer even getting the flashing green Hill Descent...

also, Hill Descent no longer works. I press the button and put the transmission in 1 or R, and nothing happens. Looking at circuit diagrams from the original 1.8 there is a first gear switch (not now connected at all) and a reverse switch (now...

I didn't sleep much last night as I was thinking about the noise from my transmission. So, in this scenario:- Engine running In D or R Foot on brake, so wheels not turning I think because it's in gear and the wheels are not turning, then most...

I'm just a few days from being able to drive this, though I don't like a noise coming from the transmission. Anyone got any ideas where to get modified car insurance for this? I tried Greenlight insurance but they wouldn't even give us a quote.

Are you looking for something that just does the engine ECU? or do you want to spend a bit more and get complete vehicle coverage? The one that I sell covers almost every ECU on a Freelander 1 and I'm UK based. More details here...

Yes it is changing. 12v in P or N, 0V in other positions. I was probing with a voltmeter in the wrong place.

looking at live data from the Immo, there is a parameter called "In gear" It isn't changing whatever I do with the gear selector. I think they must be coded to manual or auto.

Doh, I was probing on the wrong side of the inhibitor switch. When I probe on C0067-7 I'm getting 12V in P or N, and 0v in any other position, but the immo is still ignoring that and letting me start in any gear

changed to Fuse 6 on my 2004 wiring diagram, which is actually how I wired it:-

The circuit diagram says Fuse 35 to header 0292 to the inhibit switch to C0067-7 behind the radio to the immo

I'm pretty happy with this:-

I just had ten minutes spare to check this. I put a voltmeter on the white wire that you mentioned and ignition off it's 0V and ignition on it's 12V, irrespective of where the gear lever is. So I have messed up something. The immo and key chip...

I haven't reported on progress for a while. I have been mad busy making progress....... The exhaust is now extended, on and seems to work well. The cooling system is now finished, but I have a leak somewhere on the back of the engine. I'm...

A lecture (can watch on the internet) on EVs at 4pm Belgium time https://fosdem.org/2025/schedule/event/fosdem-2025-4971-converting-an-07-car-to-an-rc-ev-using-open-source-software/

there is a Raspberry Pi version. You can get small touch screens. Furious Driving make one and did a youtube video about it. Last time I checked it worked on an old Asus eeepc as well. I did get Linux running on a pretty cheap prototype...

sorry that was wrong, it's Engine ECU, Jatco, ABS, cruise control, instrument cluster.

no the CANbus goes from the engine ECU, to Jatco transmission ECU (if fitted), to the ABS, from memory then to the SRS and terminating in the instrument cluster. It least that's how I remember it.

Live data is also very important. Error codes tell you what the ECU thinks is the problem, but they are aren't always correct. Sometime the logic behind how an ECU decides on errors can be wrong. Live data gives you more clues. You need to be...