Recent content by Pawl

Have you got the correct length adjustable length panhard rod ? If not, the axle will be pulled to one side. There are 2 production rods with quite a significant difference in length between them. When the rod length was changed the axle mounting position was changed to suit. Is your adjustable...

Most steel wheels use cone faced nuts - so will self centre - so spigot rings shouldn't be needed - contrary to what I was thinking in my earlier comment. To add some potentially useful info, the L663 steel wheels have an offset of 42 mm & rim width of 8" so will have a 15mm wider stance per...

Do you know how the wheel offset compares the Disco 2 57mm ? As you say, could be useful wheels. I assume the centre spigot is probably larger than the D2 - same as D3, D4 & RR wheels - requiring spigot rings to help centralise them & take some of the load off the wheel nuts

1 of the suppliers I used has disappeared off ebay a few years ago. However, here's another I used a couple of years - with good success. They do UPOL paint in 400cc cans. Claytons Auto Store...

I'll see if I can found the supplier I used on there. The cans were a lot larger than 150cc

Have you looked on ebay? There's quite a few aerosol paint suppliers on there.

An update to my original post : - DAB radio module - RCA to ISO connection adapter - Google Maps "Offline" DAB Radio : I've now added a DAB / DAB+ Dongle (aka USB stick) & associated windscreen aerial : After I recently sorted a problem with the sound on the left hand side of the car being...

Have you checked the condition of the anti rattle springs on the pads ? Sounds like their damaged / not installed correctly or are missing.

Anaconda, I think you're referring to a "G" sensing valve. I don't think Discovery ever had one. I think the D1 has a pressure proportioning valve which should let low pressure through without restriction (also allowing easy bleeding) and then it only allows a proportion of the pressure through...

Rock the car while you're underneath the car with a hand on each of the joints in turn. You'll feel the play as it moves if there is any. Any play = possible knocking noise

It might be because the relevant brake manufacturer & Land Rover didn't believe people could be trusted to torque the relevant bolts correctly on what is obviously a very safety critical part. Bolts were probably tightened to just below the bolts absolute limit in the factory & shouldn't be re-used

After a bit of memory searching I remembered what I did with the Steering Wheel Controls wiring - as I found a Youtube video explaining that you ONLY need to connect the Key 1 and Ground wires - NOT the Key 2 wire, which is left unconnected. Assigning the various control functions is then done...

If you've had to turn up the head unit a lot to make it loud enough to hear, the head unit internal amplifiers could be working very hard - which might explain why it's getting hot. What % of max volume are you having to use ? As said, if fitted, the LR amplifier is located under the front...

Is it wired to play through the OE amplifier (if fitted to yours) & someone forgot to add the wire from the aftermarket unit to switch the amplifier on ?

I don't understand what you're asking ? You've said you've got it working already and you've got all the wiring diagrams identifying the relevant connections on the D2 and the Kenwood.