If you use just the rocker switch on its own you can only choose elevated, normal or access height. Pressing the lock ride height button first will then allow the highway ride height to be selectable.
Press the lock height button then with this done, press down on the rocker button and it’ll go to m/way height instead of access height. Pressing again will put you down to access height.
While the lock height switch is pressed it will remain...
I use Dunlops on my L322 and haven't had any issues but that said, I didn't have any issues with the old ones... Until I did.
Have you looked at Maltings? They have them on their site here...
Pro Evo+ seem to specialise in JLR and are based not far from me in Abingdon. Guess that's their office and everything shipped from China?
https://proevoplus.com/#about-pro-evo
24 month guarantee on all products, apparently. Tempted to pop in...
It’s taken 436 posts and 22 pages but I think we’ve successfully proven that no one on this forum is helpful and that OP is by far and away a high value individual and we’re all betas.
Now to match his post length with some AI drivel:
Ah...
I’d ideally avoid them as well. I don’t plan on getting rid of the P38 until the government makes it illegal to drive them - I’ve invested far too much money and blood to pass it on.
I’ll take a look at the Dunlops though. Hopefully they’ll last...
I avoid Autodoc if possible. Arnott Gen 2 are good if you plan on keeping the car long term. They have been on my RHD P38 for around 14 years and still look like new. I got them from P38 Spares, they were on special offer at the time and not...
Is the G going to be in the SKU code most likely? Currently looking on JGS. Island have them listed as Dunlop though. Still, time to put my hand in my wallet. Again.
Took the P38 out for a camp before a cycling event around Exmoor at the weekend. Some very steep hills in very hot weather and it was absolutely spot on.
Currently hovering over the buy button for new front and rear airbags for the P38...
Realise this. I fitted it back when the car was daily driven, and needed a ‘quick fix’ - now it’s an occasional weekend car there’s a whole list of jobs to put it back to proper.
Waited until it was ‘cool enough’ to run the glow plugs. Started on the button. I’ll remember this for next time!
I have got a synergy box set up solely to treat the hot start issue. I think I’m going to have to look at 1) removing the synergy...
Pop into a shop, buy a bottle of cold water and pour it over the top of fuel injection pump. Over heat sensor just under cover and can stop it firing when too hot. water trick can cool it down enough to make it fire up
Currently awaiting rescue in a car park sweating my tits off.
Drove into town, about 20 miles and all dandy. Did what I needed to about an hour later and jump in the car.. and it’s just cranks, no attempt at firing at all. Great.
Booster pack...
No need to remove the dash. A long screwdriver and one duct to cut, easy peesy. as long as the screw is not corroded in. Use a S/S socket head screw when putting it back and a smear of silicone grease on the O rings.
Have you driven the car yet? Go for a lap around the block and see what happens. Might display Traction Failure when you turn the car off but on next start up it should be cleared.
Condenser replaced, took it to the garage for them to nitrogen test - left for 3 hours and didn’t drop a single PSI. Regassed and I’ve got lovely cold air again. Finally*.
*until the next thing breaks
New air con condenser in yesterday. Much cleaner than the exhaust the previous day.
Sadly has highlighted a leak of some description between the intercooler and the oil cooler as the radiator (which I replaced 6 months ago) has gotten a few...
Fitted the new exhaust yesterday. I went for one of the £335 ‘sports’ ones you can find on eBay. I must say I’m overall extremely impressed with the welding and it fit beautifully, something I wasn’t sure would happen.
Sound wise there’s an...