Recent content by P38 Monkey

That sounds too easy to be true. How do you “pop” it? Take the small panel (front lower edge of cubby) off first? Then where are the cubby catches that hold it in place? Thanks…

It’s just the BeCM keeping you on your toes.

I did a cross-reference. Important to get the bonnet ones right as there are three variants and not all makes (eg QH) have all types. Locking or not, and under-bonnet pad or not. Centre console is neutral on lifting but somehow a lot easier action than before. Tailgate goes up on its own, and...

Replaced all 6 gas struts, with good quality Stabilus ones. Having not owned a P38 before, everything seemed heavy and clunky. Glove box just crashing open etc. Now with new struts front, rear and interior, everything works beautifully.

Thanks, that makes sense. It looks like, as you say, if you take off the interior trim cover over the wiper motor that should reveal fixing screws, Will wait for warmer weather!

Stereo slot access needs fingers like ET. Clips are too firm to get a blade in. I thumped the clock, as per other postings here - the light came on - sorted…! I am learning the LR way of fixing things: I kept getting an alarm that screenwash was low, even though it was full. So I let it run...

+1 on thumping it Landy-style. The light came on. Unbelievable.

I am missing something here - there is a scant 10mm clearance to the fairing above the cap. How on earth do you raise the cap enough to get at the nut, and even then you can’t get an extractor onto the arm. I’ll leave it in place and clean up as best I can.

I’ll leave well alone, move the arm to vertical position, and tidy up the bits i can then reach (which is most of the arm). It’s one of those mysteriously inaccessible items on Planet P38, like changing the clock bulb. Now that one really is the greatest challenge, never mind simple obvious...

So it is. Page 150. But still no practical info on how to remove the arm. So how do you do that?

Good tip though - at least I’ll be able to clean the rust off the arm itself. I had never managed to stop the arm before!!

My engine (4.0 GEMS) was rebuilt by V8 Developments. Top hats, and kept same capacity as before. All major components reused - engine had done about 90k miles. Superb job and runs like a Swiss watch. Total cost about £6k. I like the way they answered my questions: Run in the camshaft? No need...

Thinking of removing the rear wiper arm on my P38 to de-rust and repaint it. RAVE says just lift the cap and undo the nut, but it is so tucked away under the rear spoiler that there is no clearance for that. Any tips?

Update: as we are in the process of moving home, I bypassed the matrix by cross-connecting the pipes in the engine compartment. People have said that they are ID 19mm, but mine are 22mm. Draining the matrix through the cut pipes was less dodgy than doing it in the car interior, and easy enough...

Can allegedly be done without removing the dash, just need to do some cutting - Paulp38a.com is a very useful information source…. As I have panels and ducts removed for the o-ring job, I am already halfway there.