Mark Piercy's latest activity

So she found out about your parts stash then 😂

Doesn't really hurt in all fairness.

Wrapping beyond the engine compartment serves no useful function, and if it is wrapped like that the tail pipe will get hotter, hence the problem. What causes rot and corrosion is not getting the exhaust warm/hot before stopping and turning off...

I Would think wrapping past the initial joint, where temps are cooler, will accelerate rot and corrosion. The exhaust isn't hot enough at the tail pipe to do any damage or the factory would do something about it

Does it hurt so? The tail pipe needs some heat protection, otherwise it is going to melt my bumper end cap!

You're only supposed to wrap the headers 🧐

The rest of the exhaust is wrapped! And we have wraps for dinner! Not sure about the color so, the beige is nice, but the surface is not sealed. Not sure how that's gonna work with fording, mud, stones and sand when off-roading... The spray is...

At least they haven't said they will do it without knowledge of the job. It's a big job that immobilizes the car and involves a certain amount of time. I've not done mine yet but need to so at some point even after 270k but I know it's going to...

Oh dear, missed oil changes in a previous ownership 😔 It's a big job that's for sure and if not done it's engine life over 🤯

Well the news is in & its the timing chain. How much of a faff is that?

Just until red with a gas blowlamp.

Good piint, didn't think of that! At what temperature, and how?

You may need to anneal the end of the tube before flaring to avoid the pipe splitting.

These flair tools work very well, mine came with some nuts as well...

Thanks folks, so I'll get a flanging tool, some copper-nickel tubing and all necessary fittings. A man needs something to do during the next winter! By the current rate, I'll do the cylinder heads myself next year! 😳

Don't know what the classc pipe routing is like, but I did the rear pipes on both my P38's. Roll of copper-nickel pipe, fittings & flaring tool. Hardest part was feeding the L-R pipe over the rear crossmember. The P38 have a joint behind...

Use CUNIC for the pipes, it's pretty cheap and easy to make the pipes up, I have had to replace the rear pipes on my P38.

I'd say wheel bearing retainer. I'd get that checked asap🤔

when i pressed out the bearing on my front hub instead of the hub being pressed through the bearing it pressed out the circlip and thats when it started to get hard as i could not get anything between the bearing and the hub to press it out and...

that looks like the circlip that holds the hub bearing in the front or rear hub housing are you sure the scaping noise is not a wheel bearing colasped and the brake disc rubbing on the caliper bolts

Small contact as said is ignition, then a heavy duty live from the battery to the bolt with no wire currently attached, earth is from the motor frame.

😝

Just an update, the o rings were the problem I replaced them all ,left it in off-road height overnight with F44 fuse removed, hasn't dropped a millimeter. I must thank everyone for there help.

If it doesn't explode that's a win in my book.

Ahh, you're no fun Keith, makes for great excitement when you turn the key :) :)

Swapping things without good reason can lead to more problems. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I have a spare pressure switch that I have decided to fit out of precaution. I have depinned connectors before but does it matter which wire goes where?

Nope. either way round.

I would say almost without a doubt that is my issue ,if not then it's a big part of it

That could leak ............... :) :)