Mark Piercy's latest activity

I also have two compressor and a full EAS block for sale 🤣 @marjon

Jack under the chassis to extend the bag for removal, second jack under the axle for refitting. do not lower the chassis until there is air in the bag.

So I presume jack it up put it on a jack stand either side disconnect the r clip and air line then lower the jack to get the bags out? ( For the rear ) Is that correct

Didi deflate? I can't remember. But i did have a nanocom. Otherwise set to access mode.. jack up so the wheel is off the ground (need to do that anyways) and i can't imagine there's much pressure in there

For the schrader valves, pop the lines out of the valve block, easy enough, push in on the collet ring, then pull on the pipe. Going in from the compressor feed will do nothing if there is a fault present.

And you still have it for sale, discounted for a member, don’t you? J

I sold my 38 to someone who said confidently oh my mate is a mechanic legend. After locking himself out of the car, buggering up the sync etc it lays idol on his drive. However, I did as a good chap lend him the nano to resolve the issue for...

They are normal tyre valves, put a portable air compressor on and up you go. J

That will do the job slowly

If the pump is not refurbished yet, just put the valves on the four airlines that go to the airbags. Tyre pump might do it, but most are only good for 35-40psi. The airbags need about 50-60psi for standard height. Once the airbags & pump are...

All's I have is a electric car tire pump 😂 either that or no car

Hard work with a manual pump but possible, it's the 4 pipes at the side of the valve block

Maybe because the P38 is not a Classic?

Classic Range Rover? The P38 is not the Classic and the EAS is not the same.

Are you slim enough to stand on the edge? :p. J

I am👌😜

There is the one at the bottom of the bell housing..🤔

worth asking Enners about. Loves his gearbox maintenance. There’s a thread somewhere we all used to post pics of the oil that came out to compare. @HenryB

There might be an access hole somewhere so you can poke an endoscope in to see the flex plate?

No way that I know of. @HenryB recommends tightening the valve block bolts, that cured flaring on mine. However if it shifts well, I cannot see it being low oil pressure. Are you sure it's the gearbox and not the transfer box?

Is there any way to diagnose this problem further without taking the gearbox apart? It sounds likely from what the LR specialist said that the oil pressure could be low, is there any way to test whether it is?

Never seen anything on my two. A cracked flex plate may also cause your symptoms.

Is it really that bad? I thought a bit of powder was normal, iirc the filter is magnetic and gathers the shavings. I assume it's from all the grinding, but other than the jolting and grinding it's working quite fine and doesn't really act up.

We fill it on even ground with the engine running at cold start.

Fixed slooby's old Rangie. Running nicely. Leak off on #2 and #3 were leaking everywhere, of course. Quick fix with sone spare pipe I had ready. Now what the hell do I do with it? MoT test, maybe?

She's shy 🤣

You are🤪😘

My gearbox did not have a hard time, it had about three days of missing gear changes on a 10 minute drive, and then I stopped driving it, found the leak, fixed it and filled it up again.